［Last updated: July 9, 2023］With their charming designs and clear, breezy tones, traditional wind chimes are an indispensable part of any Japanese summer scene. Every summer in July, wind chimes of all shapes and sounds go on display at Nishiarai Daishi Temple in Tokyo’s Adachi City. Thinking there’s no better way to spend a summer’s day, we decided to check it out!
Sounds and Sights of Summer
From Nishiarai station on the Tobu Sky Tree Line, we took the local Tobu Daishi Line to its only destination: Daishimae station, where the path to the temple extends right from the ticket gates. The temple’s full official name is Gochisan Henjoin Sojiji, and—because of its connections to the Buddhist grand master Kukai—is said to be Eastern Japan’s equivalent to Mount Koya, a center of Japanese Buddhism.
Upon entering the temple grounds, we were struck by the sight of tents of all colors. Venturing inside, we found wind chimes of all kinds hanging from traditional bamboo blinds. All told, more than four hundred wind chimes from sixty-one different glassmakers came together to play a refreshing summer symphony.
Entrance to the festival is free, and you are free to gaze and listen to the chimes and take pictures to your heart’s content. The wind chimes on display are all for sale, so if you find one that strikes your fancy, simply jot down the number (prices are displayed as well) and head to the register, and it can be yours.
We were particularly charmed by the sight of an older couple so enchanted with the look and sound of the chimes that the beating sun and heat was clearly the furthest thing from their minds. “The glass and earthenware ones look so pretty, but you can’t beat iron and bronze for the sound.” “Aren’t the bamboo and paper-crafted ones are so elegant as well?” We couldn’t help but listen in and smile.
A Wind Chime for Everyone
Wind chimes truly come in all kinds—from the materials used to the design to the place of origin, we were amazed at the sheer number of variations, each one possessing its own unique look and sound. Which wind chime is right for you? We’ve put together a brief overview of the various types and their characteristics for your convenience.
●Glass Chimes●
Transparent and refreshing to the eye, glass wind chimes are perfect for a balmy summer’s night. Edo wind chimes from Tokyo are particularly famous. You’ll also find beautiful faceted wind chimes made in the traditional Edo-kiriko and Satsuma-kiriko styles. The Ichihara handcrafted wind chimes (from Chiba Prefecture) and Tsugaru Biidoro wind chimes (from Aomori Prefecture) were also beautiful, like bubbles floating on a gentle wind.
●Earthenware (Pottery) Chimes●
Mashiko ware, Mino ware, Shigaraki ware, Tokoname ware, Seto ware, Bizen ware, Hagi ware—all the major pottery schools of Japan have wind chimes on display. Kiyomizu ware, Arita ware, and Imari ware wind chimes will cost you a pretty penny, but if you want one, you’ll have to act quickly, as they’re known to sell out in three days.
●Metal Chimes●
You’ll find wind chimes forged from Nambu iron (Iwate Prefecture)—famous for its use in kettleware—to chimes of brass, iron, and metal hailing from Takaoka (Toyama Prefecture). Though perhaps not as colorful or eye-catching, their clear sounds have won the hearts of many. Check out some of the more recent designs—they’re more playful than you might think!
And that’s not all!
Keep an eye out for unique wind chimes that make creative use of local specialties. Bamboo chimes, in particular, have become popular among tourists for their uniquely Japanese look, as have the so-called “kaze-kurage” (lit., wind jellyfish) from Fukui made from a kind of traditional Japanese paper known as Echizen-washi. Binchōtan (white charcoal) wind chimes will also soothe you with their gentle rattling sounds. There are even wind chimes featuring popular mascot characters, such as the ever-popular Kumamon (Kumamoto Prefecture).
(Click the video to hear the sound.)
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We purchased this Fujioka glass wind chime from Gunma Prefecture. From its clear sound to the charming cat and goldfish design, it quickly won our heart. It is the joint work of Kenji and Miwako Takagi, who employed the techniques of free-blowing and sandblasting (respectively). It’s sure to keep us cool during the hot summer ahead.
Nishiarai Daishi Wind Chime Festival 西新井大師 風鈴祭り
When: From July 15th to July 30th, 2023
Hours: 10:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m.
Where: Sojiji Temple at Nishiarai Daishi (1-15-1 Nishiarai, Adachi City, Tokyo)
（西新井大師 總持寺：東京都足立区西新井1-15-1）
By train: A short walk from Daishimae Station on the Tobu Daishi Line
URL: http://www.nishiaraidaishi.or.jp/
Facebook：https://www.facebook.com/nishiaraidaishisoujiji/
By chance, we ran into a Japanese comedian called O-samurai-chan (roughly, “Little Samurai“). We decided to be bold and introduce ourselves, and he was more than happy to chat and take a photo with us. We were impressed to find out that his traditional samurai topknot is not a wig, but totally authentic!
You may know Tsukiji as the home of Tokyo’s world-famous fish market, but it’s also the site of one of the city’s most unique and popular events—Tsukiji Hashigo-zake. (“Hashigo-zake,” which literally translates to “drinking ladder,” is the Japanese phrase for bar hopping or a pub crawl.) Conceived and organized by a committee of young local shop owners looking to liven up their neighborhood, the event was first held in 2014 and was a rousing success from the start. It’s been held every year since then, with 2016 marking its third anniversary. With the 2017 incarnation of the event right around the corner, we spoke with the organizers about the motivation behind the event and their passion for their local neighborhood of Tsukiji. At the end of the article, we’ll tell you how you can take part yourself!
▲Tsukiji Hashigo-zake in November 12,2016(audio will play)
Take Map in Hand and Savor the Best of Tsukiji!
Conceived and organized by a group of young shop and restaurant proprietors in the Tsukiji area, the first Tsukiji Hashigo-zake was held in November 2014. Twenty-three shops took part, welcoming a whopping eight hundred customers—a remarkable success for the inaugural event. It’s continued to grow in scale and scope each year, with last year’s event setting new highs of forty participating venues and 2200(!) visitors.
▲On the left is Shingo Ito, fourth-generation proprietor of Tsukiji’s Itō Nori-ten (Itō Seaweed Shop). On the right is event committee chair and second-generation proprietor of Tsukiji Choseian, Sōichirō Matsumoto. Not pictured is chairperson and Facebook PR manager Hideaki Kojima, third-generation proprietor of Hongyoku Kojima, a specialty tamago-yaki (rolled egg omelette) shop also in Tsukiji.
●Feast on the Flavors of Tsukiji
From fresh sashimi and sushi to tempura, soba noodles, grilled skewers and even Japanese curry and ramen, you can enjoy the entire range of culinary delights Tsukiji has to offer. Many shops also offer special dishes made specifically for this event. “One of the new dishes was so popular that we ended up adding it to our regular menu,” explains Mr. Ito. “At any rate, all the food is just to die for—this is Tsukiji, after all,” he adds with a smile.
●Bottoms Up!
Looking to wet your whistle? You can enjoy sake, beer, wine, shōchū and wide variety of other tasty and refreshing beverages.
“When you think of Tsukiji, you may think of sushi and other Japanese food, but the Hongwanji area has trendye European-inspired bars as well” Mr. Ito adds. “A prosciutto and wine bar and a German-style beer house—just to name two—were particularly popular.”
●A Perfect Place to Make New Friends
Of course, you can invite your friends and enjoy Tsukiji together, but don’t be shy—meeting new people is one of the best things about an event like this. Say “Kanpai!” and share a toast with the people around you—and exchange information about the tastiest spots you’ve found—and strangers will become drinking buddies before you know it!
“We get participants of all ages, particularly those in their thirties, forties, and fifties. The male-female ratio just about half and half,” Mr. Matsumoto explains, giving us a breakdown. “I even saw an older man, probably in his sixties, who had come alone—he looked like he was having the time of his life,” he adds with a grin.
See a Whole New Side of Tsukiji!
The committee responsible for organizing the event is composed mainly of young, second- to fourth-generation proprietors of local restaurants and businesses who are deeply invested in Tsukiji and its future.
“We want people to be able to casually enjoy the culinary delights Tsukiji is known for.”
“We want people to experience everything Tsukiji has to offer, and liven up the neighborhood more and more.”
“We want people to see Tsukiji as not just a one-time tourist stop, but a place they want to come back to again and again!”
The passion of the organizers is truly infectious, and has caught on among all the participating venues, who pour their heart and soul into preparing for this event.
“Ultimately, we want Tsukiji to be a neighborhood that is loved by all. We’re hoping that even people who live and work in the area will come and enjoy the event. Needless to say, we also welcome participants from around the world!” says Mr. Ito cheerfully.
“If someone comes to the event and thinks, ‘Wow, Tsukiji is a great place!’—nothing could make us happier,” nods Mr. Matsumoto. “If they decide they want to move to Tsukiji and join us, even better!” he adds with a laugh.
▲Tsukiji Hashigo-zake in November 12,2016(audio will play)
The 2018 Event Is Right Around the Corner!
Now in its fifth year, the event is so popular that every time it’s held, staff members are immediately bombarded with people asking “when’s the next one!?” Newcomers and veterans alike are waiting for the 2018 incarnation of the event with bated breath.
“Thanks to our wonderful customers, we’ve been able to bring the event back every year. We’re always building new connections and learning together, and we’re proud to say that it’s become more than just a day for people to get drunk and cast their worries away,” beams Mr. Ito. “The best eating and drinking establishments in Tsukiji can’t wait to welcome you inside,” he adds.
Mr. Matsumoto, “There are lots of neighborhood-wide events in Tokyo, each with their own character and selling points. We’ve dour best to ensure that Tsukiji Hashigo-zake has something to appeal to everyone. We feel that it’s important to keep the event going, as well as to exchange opinions—not only within our own neighborhood but all of central Tokyo—to build up excitement and enthusiasm and make Tsukiji all that it can be.”
You may have heard the news about the famous fish market moving from Tsukiji, but fear not. The outer market and the surrounding shops—and of course, the Tsukiji Hashigo-zake event—aren’t going anywhere! If you like to eat and drink, and are interested in exploring one of Tokyo’s most fascinating neighborhoods, why not come and experience it for yourself?
Count Me In!
Tsukiji Hashigo-zake is almost like an orienteering event that will take you all across the Tsukiji area in your search for delicious food and drink. Here’s how to take part for yourself!
1. First, either buy an advance ticket online (see the site below), or simply show up and purchase a same day ticket at the venue.
The former is available for 600 yen and includes a wristband, official merchandise, and a free drink ticket that can be used from the day after the event. Same-day tickets are 1000 yen . (*2017 prices, tax included)
2. On the day of the event, go to the venue and line up at the reception counter. (There are separate lines for reserved and non-reserved tickets.)
3. Slip on your wristband, take map and menu in hand and make for whatever shop strikes your fancy. Enjoy tasty specialty dishes for a single coin (500 yen) as well as all kinds of beverages, paying as you go.
4. Once you’re through enjoying one shop, move on to the next venue, then the next, and the next—until you’ve had your fill!
★Tsukiji Hashigo-zake 2018★ When: Saturday, November 17, 2018 from 4 p.m. to 9 p.m. Where: Fifty participating locations across the Tsukiji area Check-in at Tsukiji Hongwanji Temple. Admission fee: 600 yen (advance tickets), 1000 yen (same-day tickets) Reserve advance tickets online at: https://passmarket.yahoo.co.jp/event/show/detail/01008nz6ubej.html
(*Site available in Japanese language only) For more information, visit the official Facebook site at: http://www.facebook.com/Tsukijihasigo/
*The above has been translated from an updated version of a Japanese article originally posted on the Ark Blog on September 28, 2015.
［Last updated: August 4, 2022］
On November 21, 2017, a new sake ambassador was born at the Second Annual Mister Sake Finals. The event took place as part of the 69th meeting of the Sake Culture Appreciation Society (Nihonshu Bunka wo Tanoshimu Kai), over a lively feast featuring delicious sake from Suehiro Sake Brewery in Fukushima and mouth-watering seafood. Today, we’d like to share our impressions of the event with all you sake fans out there!
The Mister Sake Contest—What’s It All About?
The Mister Sake contest is run by the Sake Culture Appreciation Society, an organization founded in February 2012 to further spread the joy of sake. It’s headed by Eiji Sugihara, who is both a Sake Samurai (honored in 2015 by the Japan Sake Brewers’ Association Junior Council) and board member of the non-profit Storyteller of Sake Association, among the many hats he wears.
We spoke with Mr. Sugihara about the goals of his organization. “Traditional Japanese cuisine (washoku) was registered by UNESCO as an Intangible Cultural Heritage, and so we formed this group to support sake, which we believe is an indispensable part of the Japanese culinary tradition,” he explained. “There are so many brewers across Japan making incredible sake—we invite them to our events to foster communication and camaraderie over delicious food and drink. We also introduce Japanese traditional culture in all forms—music, movies, art, and more—to promote a deeper understanding of sake and the culture that surrounds it.”
As part of his efforts, Mr. Sugihara, along with his fellow sake lover Ms. Tamami Takano created the Mister Sake Contest, which was held for the second time this year. The first Mister Sake, crowned in 2016, is Motoki Hashino, owner and proprietor of SAKE story, a sake bar located in Tokyo’s Gotanda district. At his establishment, Mr. Hashino seeks to carry on Mr. Sugihara’s mission “to identify people with a true passion for sake, and create an environment that will cultivate true sake ambassadors.” (Mr. Sugihara’s words)
The Road to the Mister Sake Finals
Entrants who aspire to the title of Mister Sake can either nominate themselves or be nominated by others. Nominations this year were accepted from September 15 to October 31, 2017, with the only condition being that entrants must be male and over twenty years of age. According to official website, entrants are judged on the following three criteria:
(1) Possessing a deep understanding of sake and sake culture
(2) Having a passion to spread the love of sake
(3) Being available to attend sake-related events such as the monthly meetings of the Sake Culture Appreciation Society and other events sponsored by the Sake Brewery Press.
In the first round, nominations were reviewed for eligibility by the organizers. Entrants deemed suitable then proceeded to the second round, where votes were gathered online at the official Mister Sake Contest website. Voters could review the nominees’ profiles and photographs, and vote for the entrant they felt was most suited to carry the torch as the second Mister Sake. Votes were collected over a ten-day period from November 1 to 10, 2017, after which the top four vote-getters were announced as finalists. (Typically, there are only three finalists, but a special rule was invoked this time due to an extremely close margin.)
All told, a whopping 2,908 votes were cast for the contest, and after they were counted, the following four entrants were named as finalists. (Listed in order of votes cast.)
– Mr. Norimasa Ishimaru (33 years old, sake fan for thirteen years)
– Mr. Naoya Namisato (29 years old, sake fan for six years)
– Mr. John Townsend (39 years old, sake fan for six years)
– Mr. Tatsuro Sakaki (60 years old, sake fan for forty years)
With no clear favorite and all four finalists showing strong credentials, the stage was set for a dramatic final competition.
May the Best Man Win: The Mister Sake Finals Commence!
The Mister Sake Finals were held on November 21, 2017 as part of the 69th meeting of the Sake Culture Appreciation Society. The event took place at the sold-out Meguro Oyster Bar in Tokyo, over a feast featuring delicious seafood and sublime sake from Fukushima’s Suehiro Sake Brewery. The venue was packed, with almost a hundred individuals (including the finalists and organizers) in attendance. It was the votes of these hundred sake lovers that would decide who would be crowned as the second Mister Sake.
The judges’ committee was chaired by the sake stylist Ms. Ritsuko Shimada, with master of ceremony duties performed by Ms. Kako Sarubiatei, a kamishibai (Japanese paper play) performer from Machida, Tokyo. Under the auspices of President Inokichi Shinjo of Suehiro Sake Brewery, who kicked things off with a jovial toast, the festivities began!
After the introductory speeches and toast, the four finalists took the stage to give their presentations. Each finalist was given seven minutes to make their case, after which they would be judged on their love and understanding of sake, as well as their passion for promoting sake culture.
After all four presentations concluded, the four finalists were free to go around the room to share drinks and mingle with the voters. With delicious sake from Suehiro and scrumptious seafood, the attendees were clearly in good spirits, but with a prestigious title hanging in the balance, the judging would be strict.
Final Results: The Second Mister Sake is Crowned!
Time flies when you’re having fun, and before long it was time for the moment of truth: the announcement of the final results. As expected, the voting was close, and results were delayed as the judges scrambled to recount over and over to ensure that the final tally was accurate—a testament to the strong performance of the finalists. Now, without further ado, we present the full results from the second Mister Sake Contest!
Grand Prize (the Second Mister Sake): Mr. John Townsend
Second Prize (Judges’ Special Award): Mr. Naoya Namisato
Suehiro Dr. Hideyo Noguchi Prize: Mr. Tatsuro Sasaki
Photogenic Prize: Mr. Norimasa Ishimaru
And it’s official—John Townsend is the second Mister Sake! Congratulations!
The event concluded with an award ceremony, where all four finalists were presented with merit certificates and lavish prizes, including sake from Suehiro Sake Brewery. As the grand prize winner and the second Mister Sake, John Townsend also will receive a one-year trophy (a giant lacquer sake cup from Yamada Heiando), in addition to an order-made kimono from Wanowa, a specialty men’s kimono boutique in Ginza.
As the second Mister Sake, John Townsend will no doubt be a presence at various events and in the media for the year to come, spreading the love of sake far and wide. If you’re a sake lover reading this article, be sure keep an eye out for our four prizewinners, and if you meet one of them at a sake bar or tasting event, raise a glass of sake and say kanpai!
In closing, we’d like to express our gratitude to all members of the Sake Culture Appreciation Society and everyone in attendance for cooperating with our coverage of the event.
［Last updated: August 22, 2022］ The Snowdome Museum has moved to the 4th floor of Yokohama Landmark Plaza. And it will be reopened in August 2022！
The Snowdome Museum, you can admire Japan’s only permanent exhibition of exquisite snowdomes (snow globes) from around the world, purchase a souvenir at the museum shop, or even create a masterpiece of your very own with the guidance of the museum’s experienced instructors. It’s a perfect stop for anyone who’s looking to find the perfect souvenir for that special someone, as well as a destination that parents and children can enjoy together.
About the Snowdome Museum
The Snowdome Museum features Japan’s only permanent exhibition of snow globes. Visitors can admire creations from Japan and around the world, and take in the rich history of these uniquely enchanting works of art. Snow globes may be purchased at the museum shop (or the online shop; see below for details). The museum also holds workshops where participants can create snow globes of their own, as well as other snowdome-themed events both at our museum and at locations across Japan.
A Snowdome to Call Your Own!
At the museum shop, you’re sure to find a snow globe that catches your eye. But why not take the opportunity to design one of your very own? We couldn’t resist the temptation, and decided to sign up for a workshop by e-mail before visiting the museum. There was one other student along with the two of us, making for comfortable group of three.
Our instructor today was Saori Wakana. A longtime collector of small, delicate accessories like origami, seals, ribbons, and wrapping paper, she wanted to put them to use somehow, so she became a certified snow globe instructor six years ago and has been teaching ever since. Her warm smile immediately put us at ease, and with her clear explanations and patient teaching style, even beginners have nothing to fear.
The workshop lasts for two hours. It may seem like plenty of time, but you’ll want to keep an eye on the clock—when you’re busy choosing materials and contemplating your design, the time just flies by! Before we knew it, we were down to the last thirty minutes. Would we make it in time?
Scrambling to finish, your author watched out the corner of her eye as her two classmates completed their work with time to spare. With less than thirty minutes to go, I focused all my energy and concentration and did my best to catch up. Our instructor, Ms. Wakana offered gentle encouragement. “Go easy on yourself,” she said. “There’s no need to rush.” In the end, I made it just in time. Phew!
The Joy of Creation
There’s nothing quite like the feeling of creating something from scratch with your own two hands. The two hours went by in a flash—I’m as clumsy with my hands as anyone, but even I was able to create a charming little snowdome of my very own. The workshop welcomes one and all: you’re free to participate on your own, or sign up together with friends or family. Participants of all ages are welcome—you just need to be able to use a pair of scissors. According to the instructors, even five-year-olds have been able to complete their own snowdomes without their parents’ help, and the fun of using their hands keeps them satisfied and occupied for the whole time. A hand-crafted snowdome also makes a perfect Christmas present, birthday present, or souvenir for a special someone. Workshops are also held across Japan—contact the museum or visit their homepage for more details!
▲This charming, winter-themed snow globe created by the young lady who joined us in the workshop looks like it would make a lovely Christmas present.
▲This breezy and refreshing snowdome was created by our cameraman. He intentionally left the reverse side blank so it could be used as a photo stand.
▲The theme for your author’s snow globe—intended especially for tourists from abroad—was “This is Japan!” Featuring the Kabuki tricolored joshikimaku curtain and contrasting spring and autumn motifs, Godzilla’s presence puts the final touch on this uniquely Japanese souvenir.
★Museum Workshop: Make Your Own Snowdome!
◆Days◆Saturdays, Sundays, Holidays
◆Hours◆ ※Please contact us.
◆Where◆Snowdome Museum (see below for directions)
◆Participation Fee◆ ※Please contact us.
◆How to Apply◆Send your name, phone number, number of participants, and desired day/hour of appointment to the email address below.
Email: info@snowdome.gr.jp
★There are also additional workshops held once or twice a month. For details, please visit the official museum site. Snowdome Museum: http://www.snowdome-museum.org/
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Visiting the Snowdome Museum, we gained a newfound appreciation for these curiously delightful self-contained worlds. Snow globes are packed with not only beautiful scenery and figurines, but can hold memories and dreams as well. Place one close by, and let it gently watch over you and bring you happiness and peace of mind.
We would like to thank everyone at the Japan Snowdome Association, our workshop instructor Ms. Saori Wakana, and our fellow students, whose support was invaluable in writing this article..
▲Miniature snow globes of a mere 4 cm (1.6 in) are available for sale at the museum shop.
Snowdome Museum スノードーム美術館
Japan Snowdome Association (office)
住所：神奈川県横浜市西区みなとみらい2-2-1 横浜ランドマークプラザ4階
Yokohama Landmark Plaza 4F, 2-2-1 Minatomirai, Nishi Ward, Yokohama City, Kanagawa Prefecture Phone: 050-3479-8445 (from within Japan) Hours: 11:00-20:00
Closed Mondays ※Please check before going out. Admission: Free
Getting there: ①Get off at JR Line or Yokohama Municipal Subway Sakuragicho Station.And it takes about 5 minutes on foot on the moving walkway.
②Get off at Minatomirai Station on the Minatomirai Line.And you will arrive in about 3 minutes on foot.
［Last updated: August 4, 2022］
Of the many traditional Japanese amusements handed down from olden times, one of the most unique and enjoyable to modern players is Tohsenkyo, a fan-tossing game that resembles the game of darts—albeit with distinctive elements of Japanese culture. Said to have originated in the mid-Edo period (1603-1867) in Kyoto and Osaka, it was popular among aristocrats and commoners alike. Despite its ancient roots, Tohsenkyo transcends time, and stil delights and enthralls participants to the present day.
The non-profit Japan Tohsenkyo Preservation and Promotion Association regularly holds Tohsenkyo events and tournaments throughout Japan. Most recently, a Tohsenkyo exchange event was held in June 2017 at the Brazilian Embassy in Tokyo, and we were fortunate to receive an invitation.
Today, we’ll introduce Tohsenkyo and its rules, along with photos from the event so you can see Tohsenkyo in action.
All About Tohsenkyo
Tohsenkyo (written with the Japanese characters for “fan,” “toss,” and “amusement”) is a traditional game that involves two players facing off against each other in a competition of tossing fans (sensu in Japanese). It is not a physical sport demanding strength, stamina, or hand-eye coordination, but rather an elegant, cultured game that can be enjoyed by players young and old, female or male, and of all nationalities.
Tohsenkyo found its way from Kyoto and Osaka in the west to Edo (old Tokyo), where it became tremendously popular among the common class. By the year of 1773 (Ansei 2), numerous rulebooks and guides had been published. Unfortunately, this Tohsenkyo boom had a downside—before long, people came to gamble on the outcome of the games. This escalated to the point where in 1822 (Bunsei 5) the shogunate issued a proclamation prohibiting Tohsenkyo, and the game disappeared from the public eye. Owing in part to this history, there are many people today who are unfamiliar with Tohsenkyo, but in recent times it has experienced a resurgence, as has been featured more and more in the media.
There are many schools of Tohsenkyo, each with their own rules and scoring methods. Today, we will introduce the school known as Misen-ryu—one of the original schools that has been passed down to the present day. The rules are easy to understand and the competitions exciting, making it an idela introduction to the world of Tohsenkyo.
A First-Timer’s Guide to Enjoying Tohsenkyo
●Instruments and the Field of Play
The players sit on opposite sides of a red carpet (“Hi-mohsen”), in the center of which stands the “butterfly” (kochoh or choh in Japanese), the target at which the fans are thrown, and the makura (a wooden box or “pillow”) upon which it rests. In front of the makura on one side sits the shisen-nin, or judge. The side to the judge’s right is referred to as the Flower side, and the left the Snow side. The players kneel on each side, and five closed fans are placed in front of them. The players alternate turns, taking one fan (in order from left to right), opening it, and tossing it.
●Fan-Tossing Techniques
Needless to say, just tossing your fan haphazardly won’t be very effective. Learn these basic pointers, and soon you’ll be tossing your fan like a Tohsenkyo veteran.
First, begin by sitting with good posture, back straight and one hand resting on your knees.
1) Take one fan in hand. If you are the Flower player, hold it so the “Flower” character faces upwards. Your thumb should be on top of the fan’s pivot (the bottom part of the hinge), with the remaining four fingers supporting from behind.
2) Gently turn the fan around so that the “Snow” character is facing upward.
3) From this position, aim toward the butterfly. Facing the tip of the fan slightly upward may help your fan fly true.
4) Draw the fan in and raise it upward, then gently use your wrist to toss the fan by pushing the pivot forward.
The trick to a successful toss is to relax your hand and throw the fan gently. If you rely on strength and throw too hard, the fan will not fly in a clean and elegant path. Release it gently as you would a paper airplane, and you’ll have a good chance of striking the butterfly. Softly using your wrist is another technique worth mastering.
●Poses and Scoring
The position in which your fan falls relative to the butterfly and the makura will determine your pose—and in turn, your score. The specific poses and their point values vary by school–
Here, we will introduce the Misen-ryu scoring system.
▲The scoring system for the Misen-ryu school of Tohsenkyo, as detailed in Tohsenkyo: The Traditional Japanese Fan Tossing Game (edited by the Japan Tohsenkyo Presevation and Promotion Association)
Even the names of the various poses in Tohsenkyo are rich in Japanese culture and history, drawing on the poems in the Ogura Hyakunin Isshu, or “A Hundred Poems by a Hundred Poets.” (In other schools of Tohsenkyo, pose names are taken from the Tale of Genji or regional terms.) For example, if the fan is thrown so that it strikes the butterfly and rings the bell attached, this pose is called “Autumn Wind” (Akikaze) and scores the player three points.
▲Confirming pose and score with an English version of the rulebook
There are other ways in which to score. For example, if you are the Flower player, even if you miss the butterfly entirely, you will score one point for every fan that lands with the Flower character facing up.
▲This player scored the rare “Emperor’s Pilgrimage” (Miyuki) pose, earning an impressive thirteen points!
●Courtesy and Etiquette
Etiquette is of the utmost importance in Tohsenkyo, and each match begins and ends with a ceremonial bow. If you are able to sit in seiza (the traditional Japanese kneeling posture), you are encouraged to do so. Of course, exceptions can be made for those with weak or injured knees—it is also possible to take part in Tohsenkyo sitting in a chair.
▲A Tohsenkyo event was held at the Keio department store in Shinjuku on May 24, 2017
Before the match begins, both players put their hands down and bow. The shisen-nin (judge) gives a signal, and the match begins. From here, the two players toss their fans in turn—after each toss, the pose is announced, and the score revealed.
▲The kasen-nin, or reader, here is Sommyo Miura, Chief Director of the Japan Tohsenkyo Preservation and Promotion Association. The shosen-nin, or scorekeeper, is Yuki Miura.
After the pose is declared, from behind the playing field, the kasen-nin –or “reader”—recites the Hyakunin Isshu poem from which the pose takes its name. Sitting before the desk is the score and record-keeper, known as the shosen-nin. When all the fans have been thrown, the final scores are calculated, and the fans, butterfly, and makura are returned to their original positions. The shisen-nin reveals the victor, and the players bow to each other, concluding the match.
▲Tohsenkyo begins and ends with etiquette and courtesy
An Elegant Showdown for Glory
The championship match featuring the final two players is the main event of Tohsenkyo. Brilliant kimono known as uchigi adorn the hall, and only the two finalists are allowed to wear them, a symbol of the glory that they have achieved. The final match is truly a spectacle to behold.
The Tohsenkyo event at the Embassy was divided into two parts: practice matches—which were thrilling in their own right—and the final tournament, which needless to say attracted the attention of all. You could tell the finalists were feeling the pressure.
Tohsenkyo players find that rather than relying on technique or strength, entering an almost meditative state—thinking and wishing for nothing—is often the key to victory. In that sense, it is a game of fate and fortune. The outcome is always unpredictable, making it as interesting to watch as a spectator as it is to play.
After the Tohsenkyo event at the Brazilian Embassy, a tea party was held, featuring delicious homemade cuisine prepared by Mrs. Do Lago. Though the event was an enjoyable and lively one, we were also impressed by how diligent all the participants were. They were not only quick to learn the rules of Tohsenkyo, but courteous and respectful to the end. Seeing everyone unite in enjoying this uniquely Japanese experience was a sight to behold.
We would like to express our sincere thanks to Mrs. Béatrice Corréa Do Lago and all the organizers and participants for inviting us to this remarkable event. Furthermore, we would also express our deepest appreciation to everyone at the Japan Tohsenkyo Preservation and Promotion Association for their support and cooperation with this article.
(Reference) Tohsenkyo: The Traditional Japanese Fan Tossing Game
Edited and published by the Japan Tohsenkyo Preservation and Promotion Association
Price: 2000 yen (plus tax)
Japan Tohsenkyo Preservation and Promotion Association
Address: 1-16-2 Minami-magome, Ota City, Tokyo, Japan (within Honjyuin Temple)
URL: http://101000.com/
*For inquiries regarding Tohsenkyo events and reference materials, please use the contact form available on the web site above, or visit our Facebook page (in English) at https://www.facebook.com/Tohsenkyo/.
With a simple reservation, you can experience Tohsenkyo for yourself at any of the following locations. The specific school of Tohsenkyo—and in turn, the rules and scoring system—may differ, but the staff on hand will be happy to instruct you on the specifics so you can enjoy the game to the fullest. Please be sure to confirm hours of operation and holidays—as well as cost—in advance, and be sure to mention your interest in Tohsenkyo when you make your reservation.
◆Japanese Fan Shop HANGESHO
A traditional Japanese fan store located in Kyoto’s Higashiyama Miyagawa-cho.
Address: 440-13, Nishigomoncho, Shinmiyagawachodori-matsubara-sagaru, Higashiyama, Kyoto, Japan
URL: https://hangesho.com/shop2/
◆Sukeroku-no-yado SADACHIYO ※Closure
Address: 2-20-1 Asakusa, Taito City, Tokyo, Japan
◆HISAGOAN ※Closure
Address: 3-34-11 Asakusa, Taito City, Tokyo, Japan
◆Asakusa JIDAIYA
A popular tourist spot where visitors can experience a wide variety of Japanese cultural experiences in a casual environment.
Address: 2-3-5 Kaminari-mon, Taito City, Tokyo, Japan
URL: http://www.jidaiya.biz/index-e.html
◆Hakuchikudo
A maker and seller of traditional Kyoto fans. Tohsenkyo reservations accepted for parties of two people or more.
Address: 448 Shirakabe-cho, Fuyachodori-rokkaku-agaru, Nakagyo-ku, Kyoto, JAPAN
URL: http://www.hakuchikudo.co.jp/experience/tosenkyo.html (in Japanese)
［Last updated: August 5, 2022］
The sake scene is hopping these days. Breweries across Japan are producing an unbelievable variety of delicious brews, and new sake fans are born each day—both in Japan and around the world. Specialty sake bars and sake tasting events are more popular than ever, making for a true sake renaissance.
The sheer variety of different brews and ways of drinking is one of sake’s biggest allures, but it can also be intimidating to newcomers. Are you interested in getting into sake, but just not sure where to start? No problem! Today, we’ll take you on a virtual tour of Meishu Center in Tokyo’s Hamamatsucho, a perfect place to begin your sake journey!
The photos in this article are from the Hamamatsucho store. The Meishu Center has moved to Ochanomizu. See the end of this article for the address.
Jon Machida Translator / Writer / Sake Enthusiast
Lover of Japanese literature, subculture, and sake. Born in the United States, but his heart will always be in Japan. No doubt you’ll find him exploring the Tokyo night in search of delicious sake. If you spot him, raise a glass together and say kanpai! (“Cheers!”)
Meishu Center: Start Your Sake Journey
Meishu Center is located a short five-minute walk from Hamamatsucho station (served by the JR Yamanote and Keihin-Tohoku lines as well as the Tokyo Monorail). You’ll find it tucked away on a quiet side street (keep an eye out for the bright orange sign!). Step through the door, and the first thing that’ll catch your eye is the endless rows of colorful sake bottles that line the wall-to-wall refrigerators. You’d think you were in a sake museum! But of course, these bottles aren’t just for admiring. For a small tasting fee, you can sample any variety of sake in sight. It’s a true paradise for the sake lover, and the perfect place for the sake novice to find a brew to their tastes.
As an “antenna shop” (a Japanese-English term for a city store specializing in goods from particular regions) for over forty breweries from across Japan, Meishu Center continually stocks a rotating selection of over one hundred and twenty brews. The vast majority are from smaller, family-run operations, meaning that you’ll see brands and labels not easily found at your typical Tokyo sake bar.
Meishu Center’s pricing system is simple to understand and easy on the wallet, and the staff are more than happy to explain and get you started on your sake adventure. Just choose a bottle that strikes your fancy and bring it to the counter, and the staff will pour it for you. The tasting fee depends on the grade of sake—most will run you 200 to 300 yen a cup, though there are more expensive varieties for the adventurous. Order three varieties for a tasting set, and you’ll receive a 100 yen discount. Being able to sample three varieties of sake for just a single 500-yen coin is a deal that can’t be beat!
Now, we’re ready to head to the refrigerator to pick out some sake. But with over one hundred varieties to choose from, where to start? Here are some simple tips that should help even the first-time sake drinker find something to enjoy.
Tip #1: Ask the Experts
The staff at Meishu Center knows their sake, and you can just feel their passion for sake culture as you talk to them. They’re more than happy to explain the different grades of sake (such as ginjo, daiginjo, and honjozo) as well as terminology like rice polishing ratio (seimai-buai), sake meter value (nihonshu-do) and acidity in a way that won’t intimidate the beginner. If you just want to enjoy your sake casually, just describe what you’re looking for (for example, “something light and fresh”, “a sweeter sake”, “something full and rich”), and they’ll bring you a sake to match your mood. After your first taste, let them know what you think, and they can guide you to other varieties, bringing you closer and closer to your perfect sake match.
Tip #2: Follow Your Heart
You can’t go wrong asking the experts, but there’s no denying the fun of searching for your favorite sake by yourself. Not familiar with all the sake types and terminology? Not to worry—
there’s nothing wrong with following your instincts! See a cool-looking label, an interesting name, or a sake from someplace you’ve visited? Give it a try! It just might be exactly what you were looking for. The bottles are arranged in geographic order, so you can go on a virtual tour of Japan from north to south and east to west, sampling the best of breweries from around the country.
Tip #3: By the Numbers
On the other hand, if you’re the scientific-minded type, you can try choosing with the help of the various statistics that adorn each sake bottle. Rice polishing ratio (seimai-buai) tells you how much the rice used in brewing the sake has been polished. Daiginjo or ginjo types with a rice polishing ratio in the 40- or 50-percent range (roughly half of the rice milled away) tend to be clear, floral, and elegant, while those at 60-percent and above (not as polished, closer to brown rice) tend to feature a richer, fuller-bodied flavor. Sake meter value (SMV, or nihonshu-do in Japanese) represents the density of sake compared to water. Generally, sake with a high SMV is considered more “dry”, while those with lower (or negative) values are sweeter—though in practice, different brewing methods, rice varieties, and yeasts mean this is far from a perfect guide. Still, statistics like rice polishing ratio, SMV and acidity can serve as a general guide as you search for a sake to your liking.
Savoring Your Sake
Choose your sake and bring it to the counter, and the staff at Meishu Center will tell you more about it (where it was brewed, the ingredients, notable features like aroma or flavor) as they pour you a cup. Now, you’re ready to drink your sake. Though it may resemble a shot glass, downing your sake in one gulp is a definite no-no—sake is meant to be savored. You’ll enjoy your sake most if you start by taking in the aroma and envisioning the flavor. Then have a sip, and delight in the aftertaste after you swallow. After this, you’ll want to try your sake together with traditional Japanese side dishes (we’ll give you some recommendations below!) to enjoy the pairing of sake and cuisine.
When enjoying sake, you’ll want to make sure you keep a glass of water close at hand. Sake is typically higher in alcohol content than beer or wine, and—unlike, for example, shochu—is usually consumed undiluted. The water you drink as a chaser is known by sake fans as yawaragi-mizu, or soothing water. Though everyone’s body is different, as a general rule you’ll want to drink at least an equal quantity of water as sake (up to two times as much for those who can’t hold as much alcohol).
It’s Tasting Time!
So, what kind of sake can you enjoy at Meishu Center? Here, we’ll introduce three varieties of sake that struck our fancy today.
Koiki na Suzume (“Stylish Sparrow”), brewed by Moritami Shuzo Honke in Sendai, Miyagi Prefecture
This junmai (rice and water only, with no added distilled alcohol) sake was recommended to us by Satoshi Honda, one of the young sake experts behind the counter at Meishu Center. Mr. Honda told us that lately he’s taken a liking to sake that aren’t too showy or assertive, but rather have subtle flavors that you never tire of drinking. We had to give it a try. From the first sip, you can tell it makes an ideal dinner sake, with a light and crisp taste that compliments an assortment of dishes. Never too strong on the palate, it’s a perfect sake for a relaxing evening at home.
Mikka Odori (“Three-day Dance”), brewed by Nakatani Brewing Co. in Nara
This sake caught our interest, as it was produced in a special collaboration between Meishu Center and the brewery. The name is a reference to the special three-step process used in brewing sake (known as sandan-jikomi)—in particular the interval between the first two steps (known as odori, or the “dance”). While this usually takes one day, they extended it to three days for this sake to achieve even stronger fermentation. We couldn’t help but enjoy the rich aroma and full-bodied flavor, which truly felt as if it was dancing on the tongue.
Chou Chou Chou, brewed by Ishii Shuzo in Saitama
The bright blue label of this sake makes a stylish first impression. Honda-san explained that both the owner (kuramoto) and master brewer (toji) at Ishii Shuzo are still in their twenties, a rarity in the sake industry. This is a type of sake known as kijoshu—put simply, sake brewed from rice and sake rather than rice and water. Chou Chou Chou goes even a step further, taking that kijoshu and brewing sake from that. Both the color and flavor are unlike anything you’d expect, with a rich, elegant sweetness that makes for a perfect “dessert sake.” We can’t wait to see what these rising stars of the sake world come up with next!
Sampling Meishu Center’s Tasty Sake Snacks
Any sake fan will tell you that while it still tastes great on its own, sake is best appreciated together with food, and Meishu Center provides an assortment of mouth-watering side dishes to bring out the flavor of your sake. Today, we tried the squid shiokara (300 yen)—a fermented seafood dish that’s a favorite of many sake aficionados—and the smoked tofu (400 yen). The former was a perfect match for the crisp flavor of Koiki no Suzume, while the latter—with a flavor and texture like a fine smoked cheese—brought out the rich rice tones of Mikka Odori beautifully. A sampling plate with three delicacies is also available for only 500 yen, allowing sake fans to enjoy mixing and matching to their heart’s content.
A Sake Bar for Everyone
As we were enjoying our sake, one customer after the next came through the door, and before long, the counter and tables behind us were at full capacity. Patrons ranged from twenty-something couples to an elderly gentleman, making it clear that sake’s appeal transcends generations. A bit later, a group of four young tourists joined the crowd. Looking around the store and at the description tags on each sake bottle, we were impressed to see an extensive amount of information provided in English as well as Japanese. As Meishu Center’s Yuko Takebayashi tells it, when the store first opened there weren’t any plans to cater especially to foreign tourists. But after getting rave reviews on a popular English-language travel website, Meishu Center quickly became a popular spot for tourists looking for an authentic sake experience. Nowadays, Ms. Takebayashi says, they get at least one group of tourists almost every day. Lately, they even added an American sake enthusiast to their staff to further improve the experience for their English-speaking customers.
We couldn’t help but be curious, so we went over to make a toast and ask what brought the young tourists to Meishu Center. They were happy to explain that they were visiting Tokyo for ten days from Washington, D.C. They were all visiting Japan for the first time, and decided to try sake because they figured it was representative of Japanese culture. It was fascinating to hear the unbiased, honest impressions of four young people trying sake for the first time.
One young woman said that her favorite among the sake she tried was one that tasted as clear as water. On the other hand, a young man said that his favorite by far was one that had a strong, rich taste—different from the whiskey he would drink at home but satisfying all the same. In the news, you’ll often here about certain brands or types of sake being popular overseas, but talking to the four, it became clear that each of them had different tastes. While there’s nothing wrong with drinking what’s popular, there’s no way to know what type of sake will truly be your favorite without trying all the varieties for yourself—and Meishu Center is a great place to do just that.
Heated or Chilled, Fresh or Aged: Sake’s Unlimited Potential
At Meishu Center, you’ll also find a counter with a hot water heater where customers can enjoy hot sake (kanzake or simply o-kan) by heating their chosen sake to their desired temperature. Some might have the impression that fine sake is best served chilled, but believe it or not, hot sake is a deep and fascinating part of sake culture. You could even say that sake is unique among the alcoholic beverages around the world in how its flavor and aroma can change in so many ways depending on the temperature. Sure, you may see “hot wine” or “hot beer” from time to time, but sake goes to another level—in fact, there are certain types of sake that only reveal their true potential when served hot. Of course, the recommended temperature depends on the sake, so you’ll want to consult with the staff to be sure, but why not try heating your sake and experiencing the world of kanzake for yourself?
Another common belief is that sake is best enjoyed from a freshly opened bottle. While this may be true for some people and some sake varieties, the truth is that sake has no expiration date. On the contrary, aged sake (jukusei-shu) is a rare treat with plenty of fans in its own right. You’ll find multiple varieties of aged sake at Meishu Center, and we recommend that you try one as a “dessert sake” before you go. (It also goes great with chocolate!)
Something for the Road
After sampling all the delicious varieties of sake at Meishu Center, you may find yourself wishing you could enjoy such delicious sake at home. Good news! Almost all of the sake on display can also be bought by the bottle, in 720 mL (yongo-bin) or 1.8L (issho-bin) sizes. If you find a sake that particularly strikes your fancy, why not pick up a bottle to enjoy with dinner that night? The smaller size is compact and won’t take up too much space in your refrigerator, while the larger size will allow you to enjoy the gradual and delicate changes in flavor over a week or two after you open it. In addition to your own personal souvenir, a bottle of sake also makes for a great present for friends or family.
An almost limitless variety of delicious sake. Reasonable prices. Tasty sake snacks. Friendly, knowledgeable staff with a true passion for sake. Any way you measure it, Meishu Center is a sake lover’s paradise. But why take our word for it? If you’re interested in trying out sake, check it out for yourself. You just might find the sake of your dreams!
★Meishu Center Ochanomizu★
Hours:
(Tue-Fri) 2 p.m. to 10 p.m. (Last order 9:45 p.m.)
(Sat) 12 p.m. to 10 p.m. (Last order 9:45 p.m.)
(Sun) 12 p.m. to 7 p.m. (Last order 6:45 p.m.)
Closed Mondays
Phone: 03-5207-2420
Homepage: http://nihonshu.com/
Address: 1-2-12 Yushima, Bunkyo-ku, Tokyo (first floor of Lions Plaza Ochanomizu)
住所：東京都文京区湯島1-2-12ライオンズプラザ御茶ノ水1F
Getting there: 5 minutes on foot from JR Ochanomizu station, 7 minutes from Tokyo Metro Shin-Ochanomizu station, or 10 minutes from JR Akihabara station
▲Satoshi Honda, one of the young sake experts behind the counter at Meishu Center
［Last updated: September 28, 2022］
Today, we put the spotlight on one of Japan’s most unique events: the Nunobashi Kanjo-e. Held in the town of Tateyama in Toyama prefecture, it features a traditional ritual in which women cross a bridge to rid themselves of worry and misfortune and find themselves anew.
★The ceremony was held without spectators on September 25, 2022.
Relive the Spiritual Tradition of the Edo Period in the Modern Day!
Tateyama (or Mount Tate) has long been considered one of Japan’s holiest mountains, with a unique spiritualism (see the paragraph below) sprouting up around it. A legend from the Edo period (1603-1868) stated that climbing the peak would lead one to paradise, but tradition at the time declared it forbidden to women, for whom it was said to be a path to hell. And so a ritual was devised to allow women to reach the Pure Land without climbing the mountain—this was the Nunobashi Kanjo-e. It was later abolished as part of the anti-Buddhist movement of the Meiji Period (1868-1912).
After a 136-year hiatus, the ritual was revived in 1996, and since 2005 has been held regularly once every three years. Women looking to experience Edo period spiritualism—and clear their mind of worries in the process—can apply in advance to participate. Needless to say, women of all ages, nationalities, and religions are welcome. (You will, however, need to be able to understand Japanese, as there are no English-speaking staff members at the event.)
A Bridge to a New You!
Participants—referred to collectively as the nyonin-shu—begin their spiritual journey the day prior to the ritual. They spend the night at Mount Tate, purifying their bodies and taking part in a Buddhist confession. On the day of the event, they change into a burial shroud (shini-shozoku) and walk across the Nunobashi bridge, made to resemble the bridge over the Sanzu River (the River of Three Crossings, and the Japanese equivalent of the River Styx). The Nunobashi bridge is made from 108 blocks, representing the 108 defilements (or “earthly temptations”) that must be avoided to reach the Buddhist nirvana. The two sides of the bridge represent this world and the afterlife—traditionally, it was believed that women who safely crossed it would be able to reach the Pure Land (paradise) after they passed. A Buddhist high priest guides the women across the bridge, accompanied by a performance of Japanese gagaku (Imperial court music). We could feel our minds and bodies being purified just looking on and listening. The women and girls cross the lacquered bridge to the other world and recite a Buddhist chant. They cross the bridge once more and return to the world anew, symbolizing death and rebirth.
Make the Journey for Yourself
Care to experience this unique event for yourself in all its awe-inspiring beauty and mystery? The ritual is held once every three years, with this year’s event set for September 24, 2017. Those interested in participating can apply from June of this year.
Applicants must be female, and be willing to cross the bridge on their own.
In the event that applications exceed the maximum capacity, participants will be chosen by lottery.
The participation fee is 20,000 yen, which includes a rental fee for the burial shroud.
(*Participants are asked to provide their own tabi socks and prayer beads.)
★Come One, Come All!
Not interested in (or qualified to) join the group of women being reborn, , but still fascinated by the idea of seeing this ethereal ritual in person? You’re more than welcome to look on free of charge (seats are available for your leisure), or even to cross the bridge in your own clothes after the main event is over.
Crossing the bridge requires a separate fee of 2000 yen.
Needless to say, this is a fascinating experience for all, regardless of their own religious beliefs. Couples, families, friends, hikers and mountain climbers, people with an interest in local history—all are sure to find something in this unique spiritual experience from Japan’s past.
★The ceremony was held without spectators on September 25, 2022.
A Deeper Look: Shinto, Buddhism and Religion in Japan
Many have the impression that the Japanese are a non-religious people, but this isn’t necessarily the case. Though the vast majority of Japanese do not belong to any specific religious organization or attend regular religious services, many major Japanese ceremonies and life events (coming-of-age ceremonies, wedding ceremonies, funerals, and memorial services) are deeply tied to religion. The Japanese belief system does not have a monotheistic god, but rather multitudinous kami—deities that reside in all things. Many Japanese also believe in reincarnation and the idea of past lives, and many Japanese homes contain both Shinto and Buddhist altars. In this way, the traditional animistic tradition of Shinto and Japanized Buddhism have melded together to form a single belief system—a phenomenon known in Japanese as shinbutsu-shugo (syncretization of kami and Buddhas). As a culture, Japan is also very open to the religious beliefs of other countries and cultures—you will often see weddings held in Christian-style chapels. Freedom of religion is protected by the Japanese constitution, and religious persecution is nearly nonexistent. (On the flip side of this, dodgy cults newly formed religions known for aggressively recruiting new believers have found an audience in Japan.)
A Deeper Look: Tateyama Spiritualism
Tateyama spiritualism is a blend of Shinto and Buddhism. From times of old, the people living in this area worshipped from afar the mountains, which they believed to be the homes of the gods, or even gods themselves. They prayed strongly to be admitted to paradise, and believed that committing evil acts would condemn them to an afterlife in hell. They also believed in a form of shugendo (lit. “path of training”)—and would retreat to the mountains and submit themselves to harsh physical training and discipline in hopes of achieving enlightenment. In this belief system, the traditional sacred mountains of Japan have been adopted into a form of Buddhism. These ascetics (known as shugensha or yamabushi in Japanese) were known for their strikingly colorful attire, the same depicted as being worn by the tengu of Japanese legend. The close ties between mountains and Japanese spiritualism can be seen throughout history.
Linguistic Note: When a “Festival” Isn’t All Fun and Games
The Japanese word matsuri is almost universally translated as “festival,” but they actually come in many forms, with some closer to what one might describe as a “ritual” or “function.” While many matsuri are full of mirth and merrymaking, you’ll also find solemn, silent events and wild, intense ones—why not travel around Japan and see them all?
▲This 2006 poster reads, “On the other side of the bridge awaits a new me.”
［Last updated: August 5, 2022］
You may know Ginza as Tokyo’s luxury shopping district, but did you know that it’s also a veritable museum of buildings designed by some of the world’s leading architects? We took part in Architectura Ginza, a tour (available in both Japanese and English) that makes learning about the unique history of one of Tokyo’s most famous neighborhoods fascinating for architecture buffs and amateurs alike.
Architectura Ginza: A Tour of Ginza’s Modern Architecture
Sunday, November 1, 2015 from 10:30 a.m. to 12:00 p.m. (English-language course) and 3:00 p.m. to 4:30 pm (Japanese-language course).
Organized by Architecture Exhibition in Ginza.
URL： https://www.facebook.com/ginzamikke/
A Walk on the Artistic Side: See the Streets of Ginza as Never Before
Having evolved from the pre-war days through the postwar period of rapid economic development, Ginza is the perfect venue to appreciate how Japanese architecture has been carried down from past to present. Architectura Ginza takes you on a tour of remarkable masterpieces by luminaries of modern architecture including Kenzo Tange, Kisho Kurokawa, Toyo Ito, and Shigeru Ban. Where are these masterpieces to be found? Why, right on the streets of Ginza—if you know where to look. Fortunately for us, architectural historian Yasushi Zenno was there to direct us and explain in fascinating detail the marvels before our eyes. Tours are given in the morning and afternoon, each limited to ten people to ensure a cozy, comfortable atmosphere.
Yasushi Zenno: Architectural Historian
Born in Tokyo, Mr. Yasushi Zenno majored in architectural history and theory at the University of California in Los Angeles and Columbia University’s Graduate School of Architecture, Planning, and Preservation in NYC. He currently teaches at Aoyama Gakuin Women’s Junior College. He began his latest project, Architectura Ginza in the fall of 2015. For English-language tour requests, please contact him directly at zzzzEnno@yahoo.co.jp.
instagram：architecturatokyo
Modern Architecture Course – October 1, 2015 (*Year of completion in parentheses)
1) Shizuoka Shimbun Hoso Building (1967) → 2) Dentsu Ginza Building (1934) → 3) Taimei Elementary School (1929) → 4) Sony Building (1966) → 5) Maison Hermes (2001) → 6) Louis Vuitton Ginza Namikidori（2004）→ 7) Daiichi Sugahara Building (1934) → 8) Tokyo Ginza Shiseido Building → 9) Ginza Six (2016) → 10) Ginza Lion Building (1934) → 11) Nicolas G. Hayek Center (2007) → 12) Nakagin Capsule Tower Building (1972) → 13) Ginza Kabukiza Theatre (2013) → 14) San-ai Dream Center (1963) → 15) Ginza Wako (1932) → 16) Kyobunkwan (1933) → 17) Okuno Building (1932) → 18) Kawasaki Brand Design Building (1932)
Kicking Things Off: Corporate Buildings and Boutiques, Oh My!
Our tour began at JR Shimbashi station. A short walk from here took us to historically significant corporate buildings, world-famous brand boutiques, and more.
▲The organic, tree-like silhouette of the Shizuoka Shimbun Hoso Building, designed by Kenzo Tange, is a sight to behold.
Explanations were formerly given in Japanese only, but Mr. Zenno has since added an English-speaking tour to cater to architecture aficionados from abroad.
▲Former headquarters of the advertising company Dentsu (since relocated to the Shiodome district) ▲Images of Buddhist deities adorn a modern exterior.
Boutiques of world-famous brands abound in Ginza. ▲Louis Vuitton Ginza Namikidori ▲Maison Hermes ▲Blocks of glass line the exterior
Past and Present Converge Before Your Eyes
From historically significant buildings predating World War II to modern marvels recently completed or still in construction, the streets of Ginza are truly a living museum. Hearing the stories behind these wonders and the visionaries who designed them gave us a new appreciation for Tokyo’s urban landscape.
▲With its scratched-face tiles and round windows, the Daiichi Sugahara Building (1934) has a distinctly Showa Period (1926-1989) air
▲The Tokyo Ginza Shiseido Building, with its striking red-brick hue, is the work of Spanish architect Ricardo Bofill
The Nakagin Capsule Tower, pictured here, is a representative work of Japanese architect Kisho Kurokawa and the Metabolist movement. Historically significant and highly photogenic with its retro-futuristic look, everyone in our tour group was quick to pull out their cameras.
The Sights of Ginza’s Main Street and Luxury Apartments of the Past
That’s a wrap!
With so many architectural wonders to see, the tour lasted a healthy one and a half hours, taking us from wide boulevards to narrow back alleys. It was actually quite a workout! Sneakers and comfortable clothes are highly recommended.
▲The Wako clock tower is a Ginza landmark
▲Completed in 1932, the Okuno Building was originally a luxury apartment complex. These days, it houses primarily antique shops and art galleries. It contains one of Tokyo’s few remaining hand-operated elevators, still in use today.
Our final destination was the Kawasaki Brand Design Building (1932), preserved today as the Ginza Retro Gallery Musee.
You don’t need to be an architect or historian to appreciate the charming beauty of the myriad buildings that line the streets and alleys of Ginza. It can’t be easy to keep these historical treasures in pristine condition, but we hope that these treasures will be preserved as is for many years to come. Have any of the photos in this article caught your eye? Why not take part in the tour and see them with your own eyes?
Architecture Exhibition in Ginza
A project dedicated to organizing and running exhibitions, tours, and art programs in Tokyo’s Ginza District. By hosting events and spreading information, its members hope to unite all of Ginza with a theme of art, architecture, and design, and share its beauty with the world.
URL： https://www.facebook.com/ginzamikke/
Compiled and edited by the Nakagin Capsule Tower Preservation and Restoration Project, published by Seigetsusha.
This collection by the photographer Kazan Yamamoto features images of eleven female models shot inside capsules. It marks the first publication from the Nakagin Capsule Tower Preservation and Restoration Project, an organization which seeks to revitalize architecture through the power of artistic expression. They published this photo collection with the hope of preserving this world-famous building for posterity.
Compiled and edited by the Nakagin Capsule Tower Preservation and Restoration Project, published by Seigetsusha.
A complete visual guide to this fascinating piece of architectural history, featuring photos from inside its many rooms. (Compiled with the assistance of the head curator of Architecture Exhibition in Ginza, who resides within the building.)
［Last updated: August 5, 2022］
The year 2015 marked the 400th anniversary of the Rinpa school of Japanese painting as well as the 30th anniversary of Nintendo’s iconic video game Super Mario Brothers. To commemorate the occasion, a folding screen was designed featuring the characters Mario and Luigi reimagined as Fujin and Raijin (the Japanese gods of wind and thunder) from Tawaraya Sōtatsu’s Fujin-raijin-zu, a national treasure. Limited-edition woodblock prints of this unique piece were produced by Unsodo, a company founded 120 years ago that is Japan’s only active publisher of hand-printed woodblock books. Today, we’ll take you to Kyoto to learn more about this unique marriage of classical art and modern culture.
In the Japanese publishing industry, publishing houses are often referred to as hanmoto (lit. “house of blocks”). This term has its roots in the Edo Period (1603-1868) and the days of woodblock printing, when printers were responsible for the entire process, including the creation of the blocks used in printing. Time passed and machine painting became the norm, but the name stuck. These days, the only remaining hanmoto in the original sense of the word is Unsodo, a Kyoto publishing house specializing in art books that’s been doing things the old-fashioned way ever since it opened for business in the year 1891.
We spoke to Hirotaka Yamada, its fourth-generation owner, about his unique business.
“With kimono dyeing being one of Kyoto’s traditional local industries, we began by publishing pattern collections to be used by kimono designers and craftsmen. In the old days, if you wanted to print in color, woodblocks were the only way to go—and with countless layers of color for each individual picture or design, you needed a lot of blocks,” he explained.
Unsodo is also known for publishing the design collections of Kamisaka Sekka (1866-1942), an artist of the early twentieth century who is known for revitalizing the Kyoto art scene by introducing modern designs and touches to traditional Rinpa school techniques.
“In those days, whenever we published one of Sekka’s books, other publishers would seek out other designers to put out newer designs. The competition was intense, not unlike today’s fashion magazines. Publishers would try to predict which trends would take off and sell their pattern collections to the designers and craftsmen of Kyoto,” Mr. Yamada continued. “Spurred on by this competition, new designs popped up one after the next—and each time, we’d have to prepare more and more printing blocks. I’ve never actually counted all the blocks in our collection, but my estimate is that we have at least a hundred thousand.
Woodblock printing is a beautiful example of an artistic tradition that has been passed down faithfully to the modern era, thanks to the experienced carvers, inkers, and other craftsman of Unsodo. In additional to purely aesthetic creations like ukiyo-e and art books, the techniques have also been used to lend a unique flair to practical items such as folding fans, washcloths, postcards, stationery, origami paper, folders, and other accessories. Notebooks, day planners, and miniature books made in this style are popular among those looking for a connection to the past. In addition to the traditional vertical layout, recent offerings also include a more modern horizontal layout. If you’re interested in adding some traditional artistic flair to your daily life, why not check out Unsodo’s online store for yourself?
Kyoto Flagship Store: Open weekdays 9:00 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. (closed weekends and holidays)
459 Myoumanjimaecho, Teramachi-Nijo Minami-iru, Nakagyo, Kyoto
Tokyo Store: Open weekdays 9:00 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. (closed weekends and holidays)
1-3-6 Yushima, Bunkyo City, Tokyo
The Rinpa School and the Mario Brothers Celebrate Their Anniversaries in Style
After seeing the gorgeous Mario and Luigi folding screen created for the 30th and 400th (respectively) anniversaries of Super Mario Brothers and the Rinpa school, we just had to learn more. We spoke with a staff member at the Imura Art Gallery, which organized the exhibition and created the piece.
“Taro Yamamoto, one of our resident artists and a contemporary successor of the Rinpa school, had an idea that he wanted to do something special for the school’s four hundredth anniversary,” she explained. “He found out that it also happened to be the thirtieth anniversary of Super Mario Brothers, so he approached Nintendo and offered to paint something as a way to celebrate our mutual anniversary.
Taro Yamamoto is known for the whimsical touches he adds to his works, infusing traditional art styles with modern pop culture. For the Mario and Luigi folding screen, he took his inspiration from Tawaraya Sōtatsu’s masterpiece depicting the wind and thunder gods, Fujin and Raijin.
“Tawaraya Sōtatsu’s Fujin-raijin-zu is considered the point of origin for the Rinpa school, and the motifs employed in it have been treasured and handed down through four centuries,” the employee continued. “Taro Yamamoto has a strong reverence for this piece. Likewise, Nintendo considers the characters of Super Mario Brothers a veritable company treasure. He thought that this design would be the ideal way to pay tribute to everyone. It didn’t hurt that both Taro and the rest of us grew up playing Super Mario,” she added with a smile.
This exquisite depiction of these two beloved game characters was also made into a charming woodblock print by the craftsmen at Unsodo.
“The folding screen is beautiful, but needless to say, it can only be seen in an art gallery. We also wanted to make something that Rinpa school and Nintendo fans could have as their very own, so we approached Nintendo about the possibility of making woodblock prints based upon the painting,” said the staff member. Mr. Yamada added, “Nintendo, the Imura Art Gallery, and Unsodo all call Kyoto home. It was both an honor and a pleasure to be able to collaborate on this piece.
The result of their collaboration is truly a modern treasure that will certainly go down in the annals of Japanese art and gaming history. We’d be hard-pressed to think of a more perfect gift for the video game fan with an eye for traditional Japanese aesthetics.
［Last updated: August 5, 2022］
In Japan, expressions of culture and art can often be found in the most unlikely of places. To take one example: strolling through town, have you ever looked down at the manhole covers beneath your feet? You may be surprised to know that passionate fans of manhole art have been around for some time, with events featuring these masterpieces growing more popular by the day. How did this movement begin, and where is it headed? To answer these questions, we spoke with Shoji Morimoto, an expert on manhole art who has been at the forefront of popularizing this community on the internet.
Shoji Morimoto
Founding member of the “Manhole Night” team, which organizes a regular event for manhole art fans. Administrator of the “Manhole Map” social networking service (http://manholemap.juge.me/), where users can share photos and location information about their favorite manholes.
Twitter： @morimo_t
Origins of the Manhole Renaissance
Manholes are an often-overlooked part of everyday life, but there can be no denying that Japan boasts some of the world’s most beautiful manhole covers. “Japanese manhole art first captured the attention of the world thanks to a photo collection by the Australian photographer Remo Camerota,” explains Mr. Morimoto. “This collection, Drainspotting, made waves when it won an award at the New York Book Festival in 2010.”
Here in Japan, fans of manhole art can be seen walking the streets, taking pictures and making rubbings of their favorite covers. In recent years, events have been organized where manhole art aficionados can share their passion with their peers, and these gatherings have been covered extensively on television and the internet. But when and how did this growing movement get started?
“In 1984, Joji Hayashi, a designer and member of the Rojo Kansatsu Gakkai (lit. “Street Observation Society”), published a book on the manhole covers of Japan,” explains Mr. Morimoto. “It can be said this book ushered in a new age of manhole art appreciation.” Another book, Rojo no geijutsu (“Art of the Streets”) by Yoshinori Kakishita, received a second printing in February of 2015 after the original 2005 version went out of print. Together, these two volumes are considered the “bibles” of manhole art fans everywhere.
In the old days, manhole fans simply enjoyed their hobby alone, taking pictures of local masterpieces when they traveled for work or play. “In 2007, I uploaded a picture of a manhole cover to a popular photo sharing service,” Mr. Morimoto recalls. “The response was overwhelming. It was then I realized how many people out there were interested in manhole covers. The rest is history,” he says with a grin.
Mr. Morimoto was only getting started.
“At the time, what frustrated me the most was that even with all these amazing manhole photos on the internet, there was no way of knowing where to find them. Even if there was a caption describing the general location, often I’d scour the neighborhood without ever finding the manhole I was looking for,” he recalls, then adds with a smile, “Nowadays I’ve leveled up my skills a bit, so all I really need is a map.”
His solution at the time was to team up with a software engineer friend to create a website, “Manhole Map,” featuring—true to its name—a map with precise location details for every manhole in the database. “I had him build me the site I always wanted,” Mr. Morimoto says with a laugh. “I also started posting on Twitter with the hashtag #manhotalk, and searched the net for fellow fans. I connected with as many people as possible, doing all I could to share the appeal of manhole art through social networking. Before I knew it, communities of manholiacs were popping up all over.”
On the popular urban observation website Michikusa Gakkai, Mr. Morimoto serves as a lecturer of manhole studies, sharing with readers images and stories of his favorite covers as well as a wealth of knowledge on the history of Japanese manhole art, and photography techniques to help people better capture manholes in all their glory.
“The offer from Michikusa Gakkai came in just as our Twitter community was coming together. Then the organizing team behind the Manhole Night event was born. A friend I met through Twitter volunteered to create an iPhone app that could be synced with my Manhole Map homepage, as well as a bot that would compile all manhole-related tweets. The power of social networking really is incredible.”
Mr. Morimoto truly is a manhole aficionado for the internet age—a pioneering figure in this ever-expanding community of enthusiasts.
Manhole Night: Come One, Come All!
The first Manhole Night event was held on November 2, 2011. “At first, it started as an academic event,” explains Mr. Morimoto. “People still come to do serious research and field work. We hold the event every year in November, so if you’re interested, we encourage you to check out our homepage.”
Members of the Manhole Night team are also actively participating in another yearly event, the Manhole Summit held by the GKP (Gesuido Koho Platform, or Sewer PR Platform). “The Manhole Summit is always a rousing event, attracting over three hundred participants each year, and we help out however we can,” Mr. Morimoto says with a smile. “From books and all the manhole cover accessories popping up, you can really see the movement growing year by year.”
Mr. Morimoto’s favorite manhole covers！
In closing, we leave you with a choice selection of some of Mr. Morimoto’s favorite manhole covers from across Japan. Seek them out for yourself, or see what beautiful works of art you can find in your own neighborhood!
1) Kamaishi City, Iwate: This cover features a dancing tiger, a traditional motif in Kamaishi-Otsuchi region. 2) Kodaira City, Tokyo: Of the many manhole covers depicting Mount Fuji, this one is notable for its serene, pastoral imagery. 3) Fukui City, Fukui: The twin phoenixes symbolize Fukui’s strength in recovering from both air raids and a great earthquake. 4) Hiroshima City, Hiroshima: A wish for peace and a vow of protection from flooding is represented by six chains of a thousand origami cranes. 5) Kushiro City, Hokkaido: A manhole cover depicting a family of cranes taking flight at sunset. 6) Matsushige Town, Tokushima: “Mappy,” the town mascot, is depicted amidst blossoming matsuba-giku, the town’s official flower in this tasteful, subdued cover. 7) Ofunato City, Iwate: A manhole cover from an area among the hardest hit by the 2011 Tohoku earthquake and tsunami. It’s held up amazingly well.
