Miso Sommeliers: Mastering the Art of Miso

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［Last updated: August 4, 2022］
With traditional Japanese food, or washoku, being recognized as an Intangible Cultural Heritage by UNESCO in December 2013, the distinctive ingredients used in Japan’s cuisine are in the spotlight more than ever. Today, we’ll take a closer look at one of the most unique of these—miso—through the eyes of the professionals who have made it their mission to study and share with the world the wonders of miso.

Gotta Have My Miso

An indispensable seasoning for countless aficionados who have fallen in love with Japanese cuisine, miso is made by fermenting ingredients such as soybeans, rice, or barley together with salt and koji (a fermentation starter). While miso first appears in written histories during the Nara period (710-794), there is evidence that people were making a primitive form of it more than two millennia ago. Clearly, miso in one form or another has a long history of delighting the Japanese palate.

Miso soup is a staple of Japanese home cooking, and all families keep a healthy supply of miso close at hand. Those who take pride in their cooking often eschew the mass-produced varieties found in supermarkets and seek out their own personal favorites. But with so many types of miso available, which to choose? What if I want to make my own miso? If you’re looking for answers to questions like these, why not consult a miso sommelier? These professionals will be more than happy to guide you to a miso match made in heaven.

Sommeliers: Not Just for Wine Anymore?

Japan is known for its love of credentials and certifications. In addition to the government certifications required to become—for example—a doctor, a lawyer, or an accountant, you’ll find private organizations offering credentials targeted at professionals or ordinary people seeking to tangibly demonstrate their knowledge in various fields and industries. Needless to say, food is no exception. From “mushroom meisters” to “seafood specialists” to “curry coordinators”—if you have the time, money, and motivation, you too can study and earn one of these titles, along with the trust and respect of those around you.

Miso sommeliers are men and women whose knowledge of—and passion for—this uniquely Japanese condiment knows no bounds, and who have taken it upon themselves to spread a love of miso across Japan and the world, while passing down the secrets of miso production and miso cuisine to future generations. Only individuals who gone through an intensive course and passed an exam administered by the Miso Sommelier Nintei Kyokai (Miso Sommelier Accrediting Association) can claim this prestigious distinction.

Without further ado, let’s meet a real miso sommelier. For Yusuke Natsukawa, earning this title wasn’t simply for show, but an essential part of his livelihood. We visited him at his workplace, a miso shop in Tokyo’s shitamachi, or old town, where he shared with us a wealth of information on the marvels of miso. (The interview was conducted in Japanese, as Mr. Natsukawa speaks limited English, but his eloquence in discussing miso cannot be denied!)

Meet a Miso Sommelier: Yusuke Natsukawa of Gunji Miso

The Torigoe neighborhood of Tokyo’s Taito City has long been home to artisans and craftsmen. One of the rare parts of the city to survive the World War II air raids, its streets are lined with traditional row houses (known as nagaya). It is here, tucked away in a corner of a shopping arcade known as Okazu-yokochō, that you will find Gunji Miso Tsukemono-ten, a family-run miso purveyor founded in 1957. Mr. Natsukawa, who now serves as head of sales, joined the company at the age of twenty-three and has been working here for fifteen years. You can find him spreading the joy of miso not only at his shop, but at culinary events held in department stores across Tokyo. Let’s hear from him in his own words.

“Our chairman and founder spent four years as a prisoner of war in Siberia. Faced with endless days of unbearable cold, hunger, and hard labor, the only thing that kept his spirits high was talking about food with his friends, and dreaming of the day when he could taste his mother’s homemade miso soup again. Hearing about his deep passion for miso inspired me, and I want to keep that flame burning.”
Haruo Gunji is now ninety-eight years young(As of May 25,2017) and a father figure to everyone at Gunji Miso. Back in Siberia, he resolved that if he ever made it back alive, he would open his own miso shop, and sell his mother’s miso, which had warmed his heart and the hearts of his friends. Today, Mr. Natsukawa is carrying on that dream.

Not Your Ordinary Miso

Currently, there are three miso sommeliers employed at Gunji Miso—Mr. Natsukawa, company president Takeshi Gunji, and sales manager Yasuhiro Ikemoto—all possessing a remarkable depth and breadth of miso knowledge.
“I always had a good working knowledge of miso, but since becoming a miso sommelier, my words carry a lot more weight,” Mr. Natsukawa says with a grin. “It’s also been invaluable when talking to customers at events across the city.” Mr. Natsukawa explained how he is now able to provide detailed answers to questions about choosing the right miso to go with particular ingredients or seasonal dishes.

All miso made at Gunji Miso is produced naturally—prepared in the heart of winter (generally from around January 20 to February 3), fermented over the summer, then brought to completion the following year. “It’s a long process, but the taste is worth it,” Mr. Natsukawa says with pride.
He also has some advice for chefs looking to spice up their creations. “Next time, try adding miso as a secret ingredient—a little scoop of miso will bring out a richness in curries and stews. It’s also great on cheese—fermented foods really pair well together.”

On its own or as an accent to various dishes, miso affords limitless possibilities—not to mention proven health benefits for both the body and mind. Interested in learning more? Why not take a trip to old town Tokyo and visit Mr. Natsukawa yourself? The wide and wonderful world of miso awaits you!

*This article was originally posted on August 10, 2015.

Translation: Jon Machida