Tsukiji Hashigo-zake 2018: Eat, Drink, and Be Merry at Tokyo’s Iconic Fish Market!


You may know Tsukiji as the home of Tokyo’s world-famous fish market, but it’s also the site of one of the city’s most unique and popular events—Tsukiji Hashigo-zake. (“Hashigo-zake,” which literally translates to “drinking ladder,” is the Japanese phrase for bar hopping or a pub crawl.) Conceived and organized by a committee of young local shop owners looking to liven up their neighborhood, the event was first held in 2014 and was a rousing success from the start. It’s been held every year since then, with 2016 marking its third anniversary. With the 2017 incarnation of the event right around the corner, we spoke with the organizers about the motivation behind the event and their passion for their local neighborhood of Tsukiji. At the end of the article, we’ll tell you how you can take part yourself!

▲Tsukiji Hashigo-zake in November 12,2016(audio will play)

Take Map in Hand and Savor the Best of Tsukiji!

Conceived and organized by a group of young shop and restaurant proprietors in the Tsukiji area, the first Tsukiji Hashigo-zake was held in November 2014. Twenty-three shops took part, welcoming a whopping eight hundred customers—a remarkable success for the inaugural event. It’s continued to grow in scale and scope each year, with last year’s event setting new highs of forty participating venues and 2200(!) visitors.


▲On the left is Shingo Ito, fourth-generation proprietor of Tsukiji’s Itō Nori-ten (Itō Seaweed Shop). On the right is event committee chair and second-generation proprietor of Tsukiji Choseian, Sōichirō Matsumoto. Not pictured is chairperson and Facebook PR manager Hideaki Kojima, third-generation proprietor of Hongyoku Kojima, a specialty tamago-yaki (rolled egg omelette) shop also in Tsukiji.

●Feast on the Flavors of Tsukiji
From fresh sashimi and sushi to tempura, soba noodles, grilled skewers and even Japanese curry and ramen, you can enjoy the entire range of culinary delights Tsukiji has to offer. Many shops also offer special dishes made specifically for this event. “One of the new dishes was so popular that we ended up adding it to our regular menu,” explains Mr. Ito. “At any rate, all the food is just to die for—this is Tsukiji, after all,” he adds with a smile.

●Bottoms Up!
Looking to wet your whistle? You can enjoy sake, beer, wine, shōchū and wide variety of other tasty and refreshing beverages.
“When you think of Tsukiji, you may think of sushi and other Japanese food, but the Hongwanji area has trendye European-inspired bars as well” Mr. Ito adds. “A prosciutto and wine bar and a German-style beer house—just to name two—were particularly popular.”

●A Perfect Place to Make New Friends
Of course, you can invite your friends and enjoy Tsukiji together, but don’t be shy—meeting new people is one of the best things about an event like this. Say “Kanpai!” and share a toast with the people around you—and exchange information about the tastiest spots you’ve found—and strangers will become drinking buddies before you know it!
“We get participants of all ages, particularly those in their thirties, forties, and fifties. The male-female ratio just about half and half,” Mr. Matsumoto explains, giving us a breakdown. “I even saw an older man, probably in his sixties, who had come alone—he looked like he was having the time of his life,” he adds with a grin.

See a Whole New Side of Tsukiji!

The committee responsible for organizing the event is composed mainly of young, second- to fourth-generation proprietors of local restaurants and businesses who are deeply invested in Tsukiji and its future.
“We want people to be able to casually enjoy the culinary delights Tsukiji is known for.”
“We want people to experience everything Tsukiji has to offer, and liven up the neighborhood more and more.”
“We want people to see Tsukiji as not just a one-time tourist stop, but a place they want to come back to again and again!”
The passion of the organizers is truly infectious, and has caught on among all the participating venues, who pour their heart and soul into preparing for this event.
“Ultimately, we want Tsukiji to be a neighborhood that is loved by all. We’re hoping that even people who live and work in the area will come and enjoy the event. Needless to say, we also welcome participants from around the world!” says Mr. Ito cheerfully.
“If someone comes to the event and thinks, ‘Wow, Tsukiji is a great place!’—nothing could make us happier,” nods Mr. Matsumoto. “If they decide they want to move to Tsukiji and join us, even better!” he adds with a laugh.

▲Tsukiji Hashigo-zake in November 12,2016(audio will play)

The 2018 Event Is Right Around the Corner!

Now in its fifth year, the event is so popular that every time it’s held, staff members are immediately bombarded with people asking “when’s the next one!?” Newcomers and veterans alike are waiting for the 2018 incarnation of the event with bated breath.
“Thanks to our wonderful customers, we’ve been able to bring the event back every year. We’re always building new connections and learning together, and we’re proud to say that it’s become more than just a day for people to get drunk and cast their worries away,” beams Mr. Ito. “The best eating and drinking establishments in Tsukiji can’t wait to welcome you inside,” he adds.
Mr. Matsumoto, “There are lots of neighborhood-wide events in Tokyo, each with their own character and selling points. We’ve dour best to ensure that Tsukiji Hashigo-zake has something to appeal to everyone. We feel that it’s important to keep the event going, as well as to exchange opinions—not only within our own neighborhood but all of central Tokyo—to build up excitement and enthusiasm and make Tsukiji all that it can be.”

You may have heard the news about the famous fish market moving from Tsukiji, but fear not. The outer market and the surrounding shops—and of course, the Tsukiji Hashigo-zake event—aren’t going anywhere! If you like to eat and drink, and are interested in exploring one of Tokyo’s most fascinating neighborhoods, why not come and experience it for yourself?

Welcome to Tsukiji:http://www.tsukiji.or.jp/english/index.html

Count Me In!
Tsukiji Hashigo-zake is almost like an orienteering event that will take you all across the Tsukiji area in your search for delicious food and drink. Here’s how to take part for yourself!

1. First, either buy an advance ticket online (see the site below), or simply show up and purchase a same day ticket at the venue.
The former is available for 600 yen and includes a wristband, official merchandise, and a free drink ticket that can be used from the day after the event. Same-day tickets are 1000 yen . (*2017 prices, tax included)

2. On the day of the event, go to the venue and line up at the reception counter. (There are separate lines for reserved and non-reserved tickets.)

3. Slip on your wristband, take map and menu in hand and make for whatever shop strikes your fancy. Enjoy tasty specialty dishes for a single coin (500 yen) as well as all kinds of beverages, paying as you go.

4. Once you’re through enjoying one shop, move on to the next venue, then the next, and the next—until you’ve had your fill!

★Tsukiji Hashigo-zake 2018★
When: Saturday, November 17, 2018 from 4 p.m. to 9 p.m.
Where: Fifty participating locations across the Tsukiji area
Check-in at Tsukiji Hongwanji Temple.
Admission fee: 600 yen (advance tickets), 1000 yen (same-day tickets)
Reserve advance tickets online at:
https://passmarket.yahoo.co.jp/event/show/detail/01008nz6ubej.html
(*Site available in Japanese language only)
For more information, visit the official Facebook site at:
http://www.facebook.com/Tsukijihasigo/

*The above has been translated from an updated version of a Japanese article originally posted on the Ark Blog on September 28, 2015.

Translation: Jon Machida

Miso Sommeliers: Mastering the Art of Miso

[Last updated: August 4, 2022]
With traditional Japanese food, or washoku, being recognized as an Intangible Cultural Heritage by UNESCO in December 2013, the distinctive ingredients used in Japan’s cuisine are in the spotlight more than ever. Today, we’ll take a closer look at one of the most unique of these—miso—through the eyes of the professionals who have made it their mission to study and share with the world the wonders of miso.

Gotta Have My Miso

An indispensable seasoning for countless aficionados who have fallen in love with Japanese cuisine, miso is made by fermenting ingredients such as soybeans, rice, or barley together with salt and koji (a fermentation starter). While miso first appears in written histories during the Nara period (710-794), there is evidence that people were making a primitive form of it more than two millennia ago. Clearly, miso in one form or another has a long history of delighting the Japanese palate.

Miso soup is a staple of Japanese home cooking, and all families keep a healthy supply of miso close at hand. Those who take pride in their cooking often eschew the mass-produced varieties found in supermarkets and seek out their own personal favorites. But with so many types of miso available, which to choose? What if I want to make my own miso? If you’re looking for answers to questions like these, why not consult a miso sommelier? These professionals will be more than happy to guide you to a miso match made in heaven.

Sommeliers: Not Just for Wine Anymore?

Japan is known for its love of credentials and certifications. In addition to the government certifications required to become—for example—a doctor, a lawyer, or an accountant, you’ll find private organizations offering credentials targeted at professionals or ordinary people seeking to tangibly demonstrate their knowledge in various fields and industries. Needless to say, food is no exception. From “mushroom meisters” to “seafood specialists” to “curry coordinators”—if you have the time, money, and motivation, you too can study and earn one of these titles, along with the trust and respect of those around you.

Miso sommeliers are men and women whose knowledge of—and passion for—this uniquely Japanese condiment knows no bounds, and who have taken it upon themselves to spread a love of miso across Japan and the world, while passing down the secrets of miso production and miso cuisine to future generations. Only individuals who gone through an intensive course and passed an exam administered by the Miso Sommelier Nintei Kyokai (Miso Sommelier Accrediting Association) can claim this prestigious distinction.

Without further ado, let’s meet a real miso sommelier. For Yusuke Natsukawa, earning this title wasn’t simply for show, but an essential part of his livelihood. We visited him at his workplace, a miso shop in Tokyo’s shitamachi, or old town, where he shared with us a wealth of information on the marvels of miso. (The interview was conducted in Japanese, as Mr. Natsukawa speaks limited English, but his eloquence in discussing miso cannot be denied!)

Meet a Miso Sommelier: Yusuke Natsukawa of Gunji Miso

The Torigoe neighborhood of Tokyo’s Taito City has long been home to artisans and craftsmen. One of the rare parts of the city to survive the World War II air raids, its streets are lined with traditional row houses (known as nagaya). It is here, tucked away in a corner of a shopping arcade known as Okazu-yokochō, that you will find Gunji Miso Tsukemono-ten, a family-run miso purveyor founded in 1957. Mr. Natsukawa, who now serves as head of sales, joined the company at the age of twenty-three and has been working here for fifteen years. You can find him spreading the joy of miso not only at his shop, but at culinary events held in department stores across Tokyo. Let’s hear from him in his own words.

“Our chairman and founder spent four years as a prisoner of war in Siberia. Faced with endless days of unbearable cold, hunger, and hard labor, the only thing that kept his spirits high was talking about food with his friends, and dreaming of the day when he could taste his mother’s homemade miso soup again. Hearing about his deep passion for miso inspired me, and I want to keep that flame burning.”
Haruo Gunji is now ninety-eight years young(As of May 25,2017) and a father figure to everyone at Gunji Miso. Back in Siberia, he resolved that if he ever made it back alive, he would open his own miso shop, and sell his mother’s miso, which had warmed his heart and the hearts of his friends. Today, Mr. Natsukawa is carrying on that dream.

Not Your Ordinary Miso

Currently, there are three miso sommeliers employed at Gunji Miso—Mr. Natsukawa, company president Takeshi Gunji, and sales manager Yasuhiro Ikemoto—all possessing a remarkable depth and breadth of miso knowledge.
“I always had a good working knowledge of miso, but since becoming a miso sommelier, my words carry a lot more weight,” Mr. Natsukawa says with a grin. “It’s also been invaluable when talking to customers at events across the city.” Mr. Natsukawa explained how he is now able to provide detailed answers to questions about choosing the right miso to go with particular ingredients or seasonal dishes.

All miso made at Gunji Miso is produced naturally—prepared in the heart of winter (generally from around January 20 to February 3), fermented over the summer, then brought to completion the following year. “It’s a long process, but the taste is worth it,” Mr. Natsukawa says with pride.
He also has some advice for chefs looking to spice up their creations. “Next time, try adding miso as a secret ingredient—a little scoop of miso will bring out a richness in curries and stews. It’s also great on cheese—fermented foods really pair well together.”

On its own or as an accent to various dishes, miso affords limitless possibilities—not to mention proven health benefits for both the body and mind. Interested in learning more? Why not take a trip to old town Tokyo and visit Mr. Natsukawa yourself? The wide and wonderful world of miso awaits you!

Gunji Miso Tsukemono-ten 郡司味噌漬物店
1-14-2 Torigoe, Taito, Tokyo, Japan
Open Monday to Saturday from 9:00 am to 7:00 p.m.
Closed Sundays, holidays, and the second and fourth Mondays of each month
E-mail: info@gunjimiso.com
Homepage: http://www.gunjimiso.com/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/gunjimiso/

*This article was originally posted on August 10, 2015.

Translation: Jon Machida