［Last updated: July 9, 2023］With their charming designs and clear, breezy tones, traditional wind chimes are an indispensable part of any Japanese summer scene. Every summer in July, wind chimes of all shapes and sounds go on display at Nishiarai Daishi Temple in Tokyo’s Adachi City. Thinking there’s no better way to spend a summer’s day, we decided to check it out!
Sounds and Sights of Summer
From Nishiarai station on the Tobu Sky Tree Line, we took the local Tobu Daishi Line to its only destination: Daishimae station, where the path to the temple extends right from the ticket gates. The temple’s full official name is Gochisan Henjoin Sojiji, and—because of its connections to the Buddhist grand master Kukai—is said to be Eastern Japan’s equivalent to Mount Koya, a center of Japanese Buddhism.
Upon entering the temple grounds, we were struck by the sight of tents of all colors. Venturing inside, we found wind chimes of all kinds hanging from traditional bamboo blinds. All told, more than four hundred wind chimes from sixty-one different glassmakers came together to play a refreshing summer symphony.
Entrance to the festival is free, and you are free to gaze and listen to the chimes and take pictures to your heart’s content. The wind chimes on display are all for sale, so if you find one that strikes your fancy, simply jot down the number (prices are displayed as well) and head to the register, and it can be yours.
We were particularly charmed by the sight of an older couple so enchanted with the look and sound of the chimes that the beating sun and heat was clearly the furthest thing from their minds. “The glass and earthenware ones look so pretty, but you can’t beat iron and bronze for the sound.” “Aren’t the bamboo and paper-crafted ones are so elegant as well?” We couldn’t help but listen in and smile.
A Wind Chime for Everyone
Wind chimes truly come in all kinds—from the materials used to the design to the place of origin, we were amazed at the sheer number of variations, each one possessing its own unique look and sound. Which wind chime is right for you? We’ve put together a brief overview of the various types and their characteristics for your convenience.
●Glass Chimes●
Transparent and refreshing to the eye, glass wind chimes are perfect for a balmy summer’s night. Edo wind chimes from Tokyo are particularly famous. You’ll also find beautiful faceted wind chimes made in the traditional Edo-kiriko and Satsuma-kiriko styles. The Ichihara handcrafted wind chimes (from Chiba Prefecture) and Tsugaru Biidoro wind chimes (from Aomori Prefecture) were also beautiful, like bubbles floating on a gentle wind.
●Earthenware (Pottery) Chimes●
Mashiko ware, Mino ware, Shigaraki ware, Tokoname ware, Seto ware, Bizen ware, Hagi ware—all the major pottery schools of Japan have wind chimes on display. Kiyomizu ware, Arita ware, and Imari ware wind chimes will cost you a pretty penny, but if you want one, you’ll have to act quickly, as they’re known to sell out in three days.
●Metal Chimes●
You’ll find wind chimes forged from Nambu iron (Iwate Prefecture)—famous for its use in kettleware—to chimes of brass, iron, and metal hailing from Takaoka (Toyama Prefecture). Though perhaps not as colorful or eye-catching, their clear sounds have won the hearts of many. Check out some of the more recent designs—they’re more playful than you might think!
And that’s not all!
Keep an eye out for unique wind chimes that make creative use of local specialties. Bamboo chimes, in particular, have become popular among tourists for their uniquely Japanese look, as have the so-called “kaze-kurage” (lit., wind jellyfish) from Fukui made from a kind of traditional Japanese paper known as Echizen-washi. Binchōtan (white charcoal) wind chimes will also soothe you with their gentle rattling sounds. There are even wind chimes featuring popular mascot characters, such as the ever-popular Kumamon (Kumamoto Prefecture).
(Click the video to hear the sound.)
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We purchased this Fujioka glass wind chime from Gunma Prefecture. From its clear sound to the charming cat and goldfish design, it quickly won our heart. It is the joint work of Kenji and Miwako Takagi, who employed the techniques of free-blowing and sandblasting (respectively). It’s sure to keep us cool during the hot summer ahead.
Nishiarai Daishi Wind Chime Festival 西新井大師 風鈴祭り
When: From July 15th to July 30th, 2023
Hours: 10:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m.
Where: Sojiji Temple at Nishiarai Daishi (1-15-1 Nishiarai, Adachi City, Tokyo)
（西新井大師 總持寺：東京都足立区西新井1-15-1）
By train: A short walk from Daishimae Station on the Tobu Daishi Line
URL: http://www.nishiaraidaishi.or.jp/
Facebook：https://www.facebook.com/nishiaraidaishisoujiji/
By chance, we ran into a Japanese comedian called O-samurai-chan (roughly, “Little Samurai“). We decided to be bold and introduce ourselves, and he was more than happy to chat and take a photo with us. We were impressed to find out that his traditional samurai topknot is not a wig, but totally authentic!
［Last updated: August 22, 2022］ The Snowdome Museum has moved to the 4th floor of Yokohama Landmark Plaza. And it will be reopened in August 2022！
The Snowdome Museum, you can admire Japan’s only permanent exhibition of exquisite snowdomes (snow globes) from around the world, purchase a souvenir at the museum shop, or even create a masterpiece of your very own with the guidance of the museum’s experienced instructors. It’s a perfect stop for anyone who’s looking to find the perfect souvenir for that special someone, as well as a destination that parents and children can enjoy together.
About the Snowdome Museum
The Snowdome Museum features Japan’s only permanent exhibition of snow globes. Visitors can admire creations from Japan and around the world, and take in the rich history of these uniquely enchanting works of art. Snow globes may be purchased at the museum shop (or the online shop; see below for details). The museum also holds workshops where participants can create snow globes of their own, as well as other snowdome-themed events both at our museum and at locations across Japan.
A Snowdome to Call Your Own!
At the museum shop, you’re sure to find a snow globe that catches your eye. But why not take the opportunity to design one of your very own? We couldn’t resist the temptation, and decided to sign up for a workshop by e-mail before visiting the museum. There was one other student along with the two of us, making for comfortable group of three.
Our instructor today was Saori Wakana. A longtime collector of small, delicate accessories like origami, seals, ribbons, and wrapping paper, she wanted to put them to use somehow, so she became a certified snow globe instructor six years ago and has been teaching ever since. Her warm smile immediately put us at ease, and with her clear explanations and patient teaching style, even beginners have nothing to fear.
The workshop lasts for two hours. It may seem like plenty of time, but you’ll want to keep an eye on the clock—when you’re busy choosing materials and contemplating your design, the time just flies by! Before we knew it, we were down to the last thirty minutes. Would we make it in time?
Scrambling to finish, your author watched out the corner of her eye as her two classmates completed their work with time to spare. With less than thirty minutes to go, I focused all my energy and concentration and did my best to catch up. Our instructor, Ms. Wakana offered gentle encouragement. “Go easy on yourself,” she said. “There’s no need to rush.” In the end, I made it just in time. Phew!
The Joy of Creation
There’s nothing quite like the feeling of creating something from scratch with your own two hands. The two hours went by in a flash—I’m as clumsy with my hands as anyone, but even I was able to create a charming little snowdome of my very own. The workshop welcomes one and all: you’re free to participate on your own, or sign up together with friends or family. Participants of all ages are welcome—you just need to be able to use a pair of scissors. According to the instructors, even five-year-olds have been able to complete their own snowdomes without their parents’ help, and the fun of using their hands keeps them satisfied and occupied for the whole time. A hand-crafted snowdome also makes a perfect Christmas present, birthday present, or souvenir for a special someone. Workshops are also held across Japan—contact the museum or visit their homepage for more details!
▲This charming, winter-themed snow globe created by the young lady who joined us in the workshop looks like it would make a lovely Christmas present.
▲This breezy and refreshing snowdome was created by our cameraman. He intentionally left the reverse side blank so it could be used as a photo stand.
▲The theme for your author’s snow globe—intended especially for tourists from abroad—was “This is Japan!” Featuring the Kabuki tricolored joshikimaku curtain and contrasting spring and autumn motifs, Godzilla’s presence puts the final touch on this uniquely Japanese souvenir.
★Museum Workshop: Make Your Own Snowdome!
◆Days◆Saturdays, Sundays, Holidays
◆Hours◆ ※Please contact us.
◆Where◆Snowdome Museum (see below for directions)
◆Participation Fee◆ ※Please contact us.
◆How to Apply◆Send your name, phone number, number of participants, and desired day/hour of appointment to the email address below.
Email: info@snowdome.gr.jp
★There are also additional workshops held once or twice a month. For details, please visit the official museum site. Snowdome Museum: http://www.snowdome-museum.org/
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Visiting the Snowdome Museum, we gained a newfound appreciation for these curiously delightful self-contained worlds. Snow globes are packed with not only beautiful scenery and figurines, but can hold memories and dreams as well. Place one close by, and let it gently watch over you and bring you happiness and peace of mind.
We would like to thank everyone at the Japan Snowdome Association, our workshop instructor Ms. Saori Wakana, and our fellow students, whose support was invaluable in writing this article..
▲Miniature snow globes of a mere 4 cm (1.6 in) are available for sale at the museum shop.
Snowdome Museum スノードーム美術館
Japan Snowdome Association (office)
住所：神奈川県横浜市西区みなとみらい2-2-1 横浜ランドマークプラザ4階
Yokohama Landmark Plaza 4F, 2-2-1 Minatomirai, Nishi Ward, Yokohama City, Kanagawa Prefecture Phone: 050-3479-8445 (from within Japan) Hours: 11:00-20:00
Closed Mondays ※Please check before going out. Admission: Free
Getting there: ①Get off at JR Line or Yokohama Municipal Subway Sakuragicho Station.And it takes about 5 minutes on foot on the moving walkway.
②Get off at Minatomirai Station on the Minatomirai Line.And you will arrive in about 3 minutes on foot.
［Last updated: August 5, 2022］
The sake scene is hopping these days. Breweries across Japan are producing an unbelievable variety of delicious brews, and new sake fans are born each day—both in Japan and around the world. Specialty sake bars and sake tasting events are more popular than ever, making for a true sake renaissance.
The sheer variety of different brews and ways of drinking is one of sake’s biggest allures, but it can also be intimidating to newcomers. Are you interested in getting into sake, but just not sure where to start? No problem! Today, we’ll take you on a virtual tour of Meishu Center in Tokyo’s Hamamatsucho, a perfect place to begin your sake journey!
The photos in this article are from the Hamamatsucho store. The Meishu Center has moved to Ochanomizu. See the end of this article for the address.
Jon Machida Translator / Writer / Sake Enthusiast
Lover of Japanese literature, subculture, and sake. Born in the United States, but his heart will always be in Japan. No doubt you’ll find him exploring the Tokyo night in search of delicious sake. If you spot him, raise a glass together and say kanpai! (“Cheers!”)
Meishu Center: Start Your Sake Journey
Meishu Center is located a short five-minute walk from Hamamatsucho station (served by the JR Yamanote and Keihin-Tohoku lines as well as the Tokyo Monorail). You’ll find it tucked away on a quiet side street (keep an eye out for the bright orange sign!). Step through the door, and the first thing that’ll catch your eye is the endless rows of colorful sake bottles that line the wall-to-wall refrigerators. You’d think you were in a sake museum! But of course, these bottles aren’t just for admiring. For a small tasting fee, you can sample any variety of sake in sight. It’s a true paradise for the sake lover, and the perfect place for the sake novice to find a brew to their tastes.
As an “antenna shop” (a Japanese-English term for a city store specializing in goods from particular regions) for over forty breweries from across Japan, Meishu Center continually stocks a rotating selection of over one hundred and twenty brews. The vast majority are from smaller, family-run operations, meaning that you’ll see brands and labels not easily found at your typical Tokyo sake bar.
Meishu Center’s pricing system is simple to understand and easy on the wallet, and the staff are more than happy to explain and get you started on your sake adventure. Just choose a bottle that strikes your fancy and bring it to the counter, and the staff will pour it for you. The tasting fee depends on the grade of sake—most will run you 200 to 300 yen a cup, though there are more expensive varieties for the adventurous. Order three varieties for a tasting set, and you’ll receive a 100 yen discount. Being able to sample three varieties of sake for just a single 500-yen coin is a deal that can’t be beat!
Now, we’re ready to head to the refrigerator to pick out some sake. But with over one hundred varieties to choose from, where to start? Here are some simple tips that should help even the first-time sake drinker find something to enjoy.
Tip #1: Ask the Experts
The staff at Meishu Center knows their sake, and you can just feel their passion for sake culture as you talk to them. They’re more than happy to explain the different grades of sake (such as ginjo, daiginjo, and honjozo) as well as terminology like rice polishing ratio (seimai-buai), sake meter value (nihonshu-do) and acidity in a way that won’t intimidate the beginner. If you just want to enjoy your sake casually, just describe what you’re looking for (for example, “something light and fresh”, “a sweeter sake”, “something full and rich”), and they’ll bring you a sake to match your mood. After your first taste, let them know what you think, and they can guide you to other varieties, bringing you closer and closer to your perfect sake match.
Tip #2: Follow Your Heart
You can’t go wrong asking the experts, but there’s no denying the fun of searching for your favorite sake by yourself. Not familiar with all the sake types and terminology? Not to worry—
there’s nothing wrong with following your instincts! See a cool-looking label, an interesting name, or a sake from someplace you’ve visited? Give it a try! It just might be exactly what you were looking for. The bottles are arranged in geographic order, so you can go on a virtual tour of Japan from north to south and east to west, sampling the best of breweries from around the country.
Tip #3: By the Numbers
On the other hand, if you’re the scientific-minded type, you can try choosing with the help of the various statistics that adorn each sake bottle. Rice polishing ratio (seimai-buai) tells you how much the rice used in brewing the sake has been polished. Daiginjo or ginjo types with a rice polishing ratio in the 40- or 50-percent range (roughly half of the rice milled away) tend to be clear, floral, and elegant, while those at 60-percent and above (not as polished, closer to brown rice) tend to feature a richer, fuller-bodied flavor. Sake meter value (SMV, or nihonshu-do in Japanese) represents the density of sake compared to water. Generally, sake with a high SMV is considered more “dry”, while those with lower (or negative) values are sweeter—though in practice, different brewing methods, rice varieties, and yeasts mean this is far from a perfect guide. Still, statistics like rice polishing ratio, SMV and acidity can serve as a general guide as you search for a sake to your liking.
Savoring Your Sake
Choose your sake and bring it to the counter, and the staff at Meishu Center will tell you more about it (where it was brewed, the ingredients, notable features like aroma or flavor) as they pour you a cup. Now, you’re ready to drink your sake. Though it may resemble a shot glass, downing your sake in one gulp is a definite no-no—sake is meant to be savored. You’ll enjoy your sake most if you start by taking in the aroma and envisioning the flavor. Then have a sip, and delight in the aftertaste after you swallow. After this, you’ll want to try your sake together with traditional Japanese side dishes (we’ll give you some recommendations below!) to enjoy the pairing of sake and cuisine.
When enjoying sake, you’ll want to make sure you keep a glass of water close at hand. Sake is typically higher in alcohol content than beer or wine, and—unlike, for example, shochu—is usually consumed undiluted. The water you drink as a chaser is known by sake fans as yawaragi-mizu, or soothing water. Though everyone’s body is different, as a general rule you’ll want to drink at least an equal quantity of water as sake (up to two times as much for those who can’t hold as much alcohol).
It’s Tasting Time!
So, what kind of sake can you enjoy at Meishu Center? Here, we’ll introduce three varieties of sake that struck our fancy today.
Koiki na Suzume (“Stylish Sparrow”), brewed by Moritami Shuzo Honke in Sendai, Miyagi Prefecture
This junmai (rice and water only, with no added distilled alcohol) sake was recommended to us by Satoshi Honda, one of the young sake experts behind the counter at Meishu Center. Mr. Honda told us that lately he’s taken a liking to sake that aren’t too showy or assertive, but rather have subtle flavors that you never tire of drinking. We had to give it a try. From the first sip, you can tell it makes an ideal dinner sake, with a light and crisp taste that compliments an assortment of dishes. Never too strong on the palate, it’s a perfect sake for a relaxing evening at home.
Mikka Odori (“Three-day Dance”), brewed by Nakatani Brewing Co. in Nara
This sake caught our interest, as it was produced in a special collaboration between Meishu Center and the brewery. The name is a reference to the special three-step process used in brewing sake (known as sandan-jikomi)—in particular the interval between the first two steps (known as odori, or the “dance”). While this usually takes one day, they extended it to three days for this sake to achieve even stronger fermentation. We couldn’t help but enjoy the rich aroma and full-bodied flavor, which truly felt as if it was dancing on the tongue.
Chou Chou Chou, brewed by Ishii Shuzo in Saitama
The bright blue label of this sake makes a stylish first impression. Honda-san explained that both the owner (kuramoto) and master brewer (toji) at Ishii Shuzo are still in their twenties, a rarity in the sake industry. This is a type of sake known as kijoshu—put simply, sake brewed from rice and sake rather than rice and water. Chou Chou Chou goes even a step further, taking that kijoshu and brewing sake from that. Both the color and flavor are unlike anything you’d expect, with a rich, elegant sweetness that makes for a perfect “dessert sake.” We can’t wait to see what these rising stars of the sake world come up with next!
Sampling Meishu Center’s Tasty Sake Snacks
Any sake fan will tell you that while it still tastes great on its own, sake is best appreciated together with food, and Meishu Center provides an assortment of mouth-watering side dishes to bring out the flavor of your sake. Today, we tried the squid shiokara (300 yen)—a fermented seafood dish that’s a favorite of many sake aficionados—and the smoked tofu (400 yen). The former was a perfect match for the crisp flavor of Koiki no Suzume, while the latter—with a flavor and texture like a fine smoked cheese—brought out the rich rice tones of Mikka Odori beautifully. A sampling plate with three delicacies is also available for only 500 yen, allowing sake fans to enjoy mixing and matching to their heart’s content.
A Sake Bar for Everyone
As we were enjoying our sake, one customer after the next came through the door, and before long, the counter and tables behind us were at full capacity. Patrons ranged from twenty-something couples to an elderly gentleman, making it clear that sake’s appeal transcends generations. A bit later, a group of four young tourists joined the crowd. Looking around the store and at the description tags on each sake bottle, we were impressed to see an extensive amount of information provided in English as well as Japanese. As Meishu Center’s Yuko Takebayashi tells it, when the store first opened there weren’t any plans to cater especially to foreign tourists. But after getting rave reviews on a popular English-language travel website, Meishu Center quickly became a popular spot for tourists looking for an authentic sake experience. Nowadays, Ms. Takebayashi says, they get at least one group of tourists almost every day. Lately, they even added an American sake enthusiast to their staff to further improve the experience for their English-speaking customers.
We couldn’t help but be curious, so we went over to make a toast and ask what brought the young tourists to Meishu Center. They were happy to explain that they were visiting Tokyo for ten days from Washington, D.C. They were all visiting Japan for the first time, and decided to try sake because they figured it was representative of Japanese culture. It was fascinating to hear the unbiased, honest impressions of four young people trying sake for the first time.
One young woman said that her favorite among the sake she tried was one that tasted as clear as water. On the other hand, a young man said that his favorite by far was one that had a strong, rich taste—different from the whiskey he would drink at home but satisfying all the same. In the news, you’ll often here about certain brands or types of sake being popular overseas, but talking to the four, it became clear that each of them had different tastes. While there’s nothing wrong with drinking what’s popular, there’s no way to know what type of sake will truly be your favorite without trying all the varieties for yourself—and Meishu Center is a great place to do just that.
Heated or Chilled, Fresh or Aged: Sake’s Unlimited Potential
At Meishu Center, you’ll also find a counter with a hot water heater where customers can enjoy hot sake (kanzake or simply o-kan) by heating their chosen sake to their desired temperature. Some might have the impression that fine sake is best served chilled, but believe it or not, hot sake is a deep and fascinating part of sake culture. You could even say that sake is unique among the alcoholic beverages around the world in how its flavor and aroma can change in so many ways depending on the temperature. Sure, you may see “hot wine” or “hot beer” from time to time, but sake goes to another level—in fact, there are certain types of sake that only reveal their true potential when served hot. Of course, the recommended temperature depends on the sake, so you’ll want to consult with the staff to be sure, but why not try heating your sake and experiencing the world of kanzake for yourself?
Another common belief is that sake is best enjoyed from a freshly opened bottle. While this may be true for some people and some sake varieties, the truth is that sake has no expiration date. On the contrary, aged sake (jukusei-shu) is a rare treat with plenty of fans in its own right. You’ll find multiple varieties of aged sake at Meishu Center, and we recommend that you try one as a “dessert sake” before you go. (It also goes great with chocolate!)
Something for the Road
After sampling all the delicious varieties of sake at Meishu Center, you may find yourself wishing you could enjoy such delicious sake at home. Good news! Almost all of the sake on display can also be bought by the bottle, in 720 mL (yongo-bin) or 1.8L (issho-bin) sizes. If you find a sake that particularly strikes your fancy, why not pick up a bottle to enjoy with dinner that night? The smaller size is compact and won’t take up too much space in your refrigerator, while the larger size will allow you to enjoy the gradual and delicate changes in flavor over a week or two after you open it. In addition to your own personal souvenir, a bottle of sake also makes for a great present for friends or family.
An almost limitless variety of delicious sake. Reasonable prices. Tasty sake snacks. Friendly, knowledgeable staff with a true passion for sake. Any way you measure it, Meishu Center is a sake lover’s paradise. But why take our word for it? If you’re interested in trying out sake, check it out for yourself. You just might find the sake of your dreams!
★Meishu Center Ochanomizu★
Hours:
(Tue-Fri) 2 p.m. to 10 p.m. (Last order 9:45 p.m.)
(Sat) 12 p.m. to 10 p.m. (Last order 9:45 p.m.)
(Sun) 12 p.m. to 7 p.m. (Last order 6:45 p.m.)
Closed Mondays
Phone: 03-5207-2420
Homepage: http://nihonshu.com/
Address: 1-2-12 Yushima, Bunkyo-ku, Tokyo (first floor of Lions Plaza Ochanomizu)
住所：東京都文京区湯島1-2-12ライオンズプラザ御茶ノ水1F
Getting there: 5 minutes on foot from JR Ochanomizu station, 7 minutes from Tokyo Metro Shin-Ochanomizu station, or 10 minutes from JR Akihabara station
▲Satoshi Honda, one of the young sake experts behind the counter at Meishu Center
［Last updated: August 5, 2022］
You may know Ginza as Tokyo’s luxury shopping district, but did you know that it’s also a veritable museum of buildings designed by some of the world’s leading architects? We took part in Architectura Ginza, a tour (available in both Japanese and English) that makes learning about the unique history of one of Tokyo’s most famous neighborhoods fascinating for architecture buffs and amateurs alike.
Architectura Ginza: A Tour of Ginza’s Modern Architecture
Sunday, November 1, 2015 from 10:30 a.m. to 12:00 p.m. (English-language course) and 3:00 p.m. to 4:30 pm (Japanese-language course).
Organized by Architecture Exhibition in Ginza.
URL： https://www.facebook.com/ginzamikke/
A Walk on the Artistic Side: See the Streets of Ginza as Never Before
Having evolved from the pre-war days through the postwar period of rapid economic development, Ginza is the perfect venue to appreciate how Japanese architecture has been carried down from past to present. Architectura Ginza takes you on a tour of remarkable masterpieces by luminaries of modern architecture including Kenzo Tange, Kisho Kurokawa, Toyo Ito, and Shigeru Ban. Where are these masterpieces to be found? Why, right on the streets of Ginza—if you know where to look. Fortunately for us, architectural historian Yasushi Zenno was there to direct us and explain in fascinating detail the marvels before our eyes. Tours are given in the morning and afternoon, each limited to ten people to ensure a cozy, comfortable atmosphere.
Yasushi Zenno: Architectural Historian
Born in Tokyo, Mr. Yasushi Zenno majored in architectural history and theory at the University of California in Los Angeles and Columbia University’s Graduate School of Architecture, Planning, and Preservation in NYC. He currently teaches at Aoyama Gakuin Women’s Junior College. He began his latest project, Architectura Ginza in the fall of 2015. For English-language tour requests, please contact him directly at zzzzEnno@yahoo.co.jp.
instagram：architecturatokyo
Modern Architecture Course – October 1, 2015 (*Year of completion in parentheses)
1) Shizuoka Shimbun Hoso Building (1967) → 2) Dentsu Ginza Building (1934) → 3) Taimei Elementary School (1929) → 4) Sony Building (1966) → 5) Maison Hermes (2001) → 6) Louis Vuitton Ginza Namikidori（2004）→ 7) Daiichi Sugahara Building (1934) → 8) Tokyo Ginza Shiseido Building → 9) Ginza Six (2016) → 10) Ginza Lion Building (1934) → 11) Nicolas G. Hayek Center (2007) → 12) Nakagin Capsule Tower Building (1972) → 13) Ginza Kabukiza Theatre (2013) → 14) San-ai Dream Center (1963) → 15) Ginza Wako (1932) → 16) Kyobunkwan (1933) → 17) Okuno Building (1932) → 18) Kawasaki Brand Design Building (1932)
Kicking Things Off: Corporate Buildings and Boutiques, Oh My!
Our tour began at JR Shimbashi station. A short walk from here took us to historically significant corporate buildings, world-famous brand boutiques, and more.
▲The organic, tree-like silhouette of the Shizuoka Shimbun Hoso Building, designed by Kenzo Tange, is a sight to behold.
Explanations were formerly given in Japanese only, but Mr. Zenno has since added an English-speaking tour to cater to architecture aficionados from abroad.
▲Former headquarters of the advertising company Dentsu (since relocated to the Shiodome district) ▲Images of Buddhist deities adorn a modern exterior.
Boutiques of world-famous brands abound in Ginza. ▲Louis Vuitton Ginza Namikidori ▲Maison Hermes ▲Blocks of glass line the exterior
Past and Present Converge Before Your Eyes
From historically significant buildings predating World War II to modern marvels recently completed or still in construction, the streets of Ginza are truly a living museum. Hearing the stories behind these wonders and the visionaries who designed them gave us a new appreciation for Tokyo’s urban landscape.
▲With its scratched-face tiles and round windows, the Daiichi Sugahara Building (1934) has a distinctly Showa Period (1926-1989) air
▲The Tokyo Ginza Shiseido Building, with its striking red-brick hue, is the work of Spanish architect Ricardo Bofill
The Nakagin Capsule Tower, pictured here, is a representative work of Japanese architect Kisho Kurokawa and the Metabolist movement. Historically significant and highly photogenic with its retro-futuristic look, everyone in our tour group was quick to pull out their cameras.
The Sights of Ginza’s Main Street and Luxury Apartments of the Past
That’s a wrap!
With so many architectural wonders to see, the tour lasted a healthy one and a half hours, taking us from wide boulevards to narrow back alleys. It was actually quite a workout! Sneakers and comfortable clothes are highly recommended.
▲The Wako clock tower is a Ginza landmark
▲Completed in 1932, the Okuno Building was originally a luxury apartment complex. These days, it houses primarily antique shops and art galleries. It contains one of Tokyo’s few remaining hand-operated elevators, still in use today.
Our final destination was the Kawasaki Brand Design Building (1932), preserved today as the Ginza Retro Gallery Musee.
You don’t need to be an architect or historian to appreciate the charming beauty of the myriad buildings that line the streets and alleys of Ginza. It can’t be easy to keep these historical treasures in pristine condition, but we hope that these treasures will be preserved as is for many years to come. Have any of the photos in this article caught your eye? Why not take part in the tour and see them with your own eyes?
Architecture Exhibition in Ginza
A project dedicated to organizing and running exhibitions, tours, and art programs in Tokyo’s Ginza District. By hosting events and spreading information, its members hope to unite all of Ginza with a theme of art, architecture, and design, and share its beauty with the world.
URL： https://www.facebook.com/ginzamikke/
Compiled and edited by the Nakagin Capsule Tower Preservation and Restoration Project, published by Seigetsusha.
This collection by the photographer Kazan Yamamoto features images of eleven female models shot inside capsules. It marks the first publication from the Nakagin Capsule Tower Preservation and Restoration Project, an organization which seeks to revitalize architecture through the power of artistic expression. They published this photo collection with the hope of preserving this world-famous building for posterity.
Compiled and edited by the Nakagin Capsule Tower Preservation and Restoration Project, published by Seigetsusha.
A complete visual guide to this fascinating piece of architectural history, featuring photos from inside its many rooms. (Compiled with the assistance of the head curator of Architecture Exhibition in Ginza, who resides within the building.)
［Last updated: August 4, 2022］
With traditional Japanese food, or washoku, being recognized as an Intangible Cultural Heritage by UNESCO in December 2013, the distinctive ingredients used in Japan’s cuisine are in the spotlight more than ever. Today, we’ll take a closer look at one of the most unique of these—miso—through the eyes of the professionals who have made it their mission to study and share with the world the wonders of miso.
Gotta Have My Miso
An indispensable seasoning for countless aficionados who have fallen in love with Japanese cuisine, miso is made by fermenting ingredients such as soybeans, rice, or barley together with salt and koji (a fermentation starter). While miso first appears in written histories during the Nara period (710-794), there is evidence that people were making a primitive form of it more than two millennia ago. Clearly, miso in one form or another has a long history of delighting the Japanese palate.
Miso soup is a staple of Japanese home cooking, and all families keep a healthy supply of miso close at hand. Those who take pride in their cooking often eschew the mass-produced varieties found in supermarkets and seek out their own personal favorites. But with so many types of miso available, which to choose? What if I want to make my own miso? If you’re looking for answers to questions like these, why not consult a miso sommelier? These professionals will be more than happy to guide you to a miso match made in heaven.
Sommeliers: Not Just for Wine Anymore?
Japan is known for its love of credentials and certifications. In addition to the government certifications required to become—for example—a doctor, a lawyer, or an accountant, you’ll find private organizations offering credentials targeted at professionals or ordinary people seeking to tangibly demonstrate their knowledge in various fields and industries. Needless to say, food is no exception. From “mushroom meisters” to “seafood specialists” to “curry coordinators”—if you have the time, money, and motivation, you too can study and earn one of these titles, along with the trust and respect of those around you.
Miso sommeliers are men and women whose knowledge of—and passion for—this uniquely Japanese condiment knows no bounds, and who have taken it upon themselves to spread a love of miso across Japan and the world, while passing down the secrets of miso production and miso cuisine to future generations. Only individuals who gone through an intensive course and passed an exam administered by the Miso Sommelier Nintei Kyokai (Miso Sommelier Accrediting Association) can claim this prestigious distinction.
Without further ado, let’s meet a real miso sommelier. For Yusuke Natsukawa, earning this title wasn’t simply for show, but an essential part of his livelihood. We visited him at his workplace, a miso shop in Tokyo’s shitamachi, or old town, where he shared with us a wealth of information on the marvels of miso. (The interview was conducted in Japanese, as Mr. Natsukawa speaks limited English, but his eloquence in discussing miso cannot be denied!)
Meet a Miso Sommelier: Yusuke Natsukawa of Gunji Miso
The Torigoe neighborhood of Tokyo’s Taito City has long been home to artisans and craftsmen. One of the rare parts of the city to survive the World War II air raids, its streets are lined with traditional row houses (known as nagaya). It is here, tucked away in a corner of a shopping arcade known as Okazu-yokochō, that you will find Gunji Miso Tsukemono-ten, a family-run miso purveyor founded in 1957. Mr. Natsukawa, who now serves as head of sales, joined the company at the age of twenty-three and has been working here for fifteen years. You can find him spreading the joy of miso not only at his shop, but at culinary events held in department stores across Tokyo. Let’s hear from him in his own words.
“Our chairman and founder spent four years as a prisoner of war in Siberia. Faced with endless days of unbearable cold, hunger, and hard labor, the only thing that kept his spirits high was talking about food with his friends, and dreaming of the day when he could taste his mother’s homemade miso soup again. Hearing about his deep passion for miso inspired me, and I want to keep that flame burning.”
Haruo Gunji is now ninety-eight years young(As of May 25,2017) and a father figure to everyone at Gunji Miso. Back in Siberia, he resolved that if he ever made it back alive, he would open his own miso shop, and sell his mother’s miso, which had warmed his heart and the hearts of his friends. Today, Mr. Natsukawa is carrying on that dream.
Not Your Ordinary Miso
Currently, there are three miso sommeliers employed at Gunji Miso—Mr. Natsukawa, company president Takeshi Gunji, and sales manager Yasuhiro Ikemoto—all possessing a remarkable depth and breadth of miso knowledge.
“I always had a good working knowledge of miso, but since becoming a miso sommelier, my words carry a lot more weight,” Mr. Natsukawa says with a grin. “It’s also been invaluable when talking to customers at events across the city.” Mr. Natsukawa explained how he is now able to provide detailed answers to questions about choosing the right miso to go with particular ingredients or seasonal dishes.
All miso made at Gunji Miso is produced naturally—prepared in the heart of winter (generally from around January 20 to February 3), fermented over the summer, then brought to completion the following year. “It’s a long process, but the taste is worth it,” Mr. Natsukawa says with pride.
He also has some advice for chefs looking to spice up their creations. “Next time, try adding miso as a secret ingredient—a little scoop of miso will bring out a richness in curries and stews. It’s also great on cheese—fermented foods really pair well together.”
On its own or as an accent to various dishes, miso affords limitless possibilities—not to mention proven health benefits for both the body and mind. Interested in learning more? Why not take a trip to old town Tokyo and visit Mr. Natsukawa yourself? The wide and wonderful world of miso awaits you!
